Power assisted steering "blip"

[q292u]

I've now driven quite a few miles in my A2, without any serious issues, but the other day as I backed out of my drive, there was a loud beep. Didn't see any warning lights.
But when I drove on, the steering was REALLY heavy. I limped it to the end of the road, and back again, and somewhere along the way, the PAS came back on. Done another 10 miles today without issue.
Car is booked in with mechanic for other issues, (two weeks time) but he may take a look at this as well.
I'd like to have a poke at this before then, but where to start?
I'm thinking PAS fluid or electrical issues?
(I get a charging light until I rev engine a bit - alternator? Battery?)
Suggestions welcome..

 

[Robin_Cox]

What's the engine?

How new is the battery / condition is the alternator?

What you've described sounds like classic load shedding on a car where either the battery is low (especially if cold), or where the alternator is weak - our 90A alternator in the 1.4i seems to recharge the battery somewhat slowly in winter weather conditions and the steering (and sometimes other ECUs get upset whereupon we get spurious error messages now and again), whereas the 140A ones in our TDis seem to keep on top of the batteries better and I've never encountered load shedding with either. As the steering is powered electrohydraulically, the steering pump has huge current draw. When the voltage level gets low enough the steering assistance is cut transiently in order to keep other more important safety functions operable.

I think you've hit the nail on the head at the end - either battery or alternator is a bit under the weather and other factors have come into play.

 

[Deleted member 20348]

Ditto...

Hi,

I agree with @Robin_Cox.

Check the voltage at the battery with the engine on and the engine off. The A2 power steering is known for being power-hungry. You could get an assistant to turn the steering wheel with the engine running to see how the multimeter reading reacts.

I use an oil extractor (a big syringe with a rubber tube on the end of it) to extract the power steering oil from the filler cap under the passenger headlight. If you buy a litre of green VAG PAS fluid, you get about 2 and a half refills. This will get most of the old oil out.

Good Luck!

 

[Axit]

I had exactly the same issue happened a few times whilst backing off my drive like yours.

I simply cleaned up the earth behind the passenger headlight and never had the problem re occur I have since had a replacement alternator, so maybe it was an early sign of that was about to fail.

If you haven`t, clean the earth strap and see what happens, that`s a free fix.

 

[Deleted member 20348]

I had exactly the same issue happened a few times whilst backing off my drive like yours.

I simply cleaned up the earth behind the passenger headlight and never had the problem re occur I have since had a replacement alternator, so maybe it was an early sign of that was about to fail.

If you haven`t, clean the earth strap and see what happens, that`s a free fix.

Darn it, you beat me to it, @Axit, the no-cost option.

 

[q292u]

When you say "behind the passenger headlight", does this mean removing the headlight?
Because that would also give me access to the PAS reservoir for topping up..?

 

[Deleted member 20348]

Two for one! You are correct; you could do both jobs at the same time. EDIT: Just two torx bolts to remove the headlight; the headlight electrical connector is usually stuck.

Remember to clean the other end of the ground cable at the gearbox (or where it may be attached, I not too sure).

Information - Electrical - A2 earth points

Attached are pictures for the Earth Points on the A2 :cool: NOTE: 1.6FSi Owners I have found that these cables are faulty in 3 cases (all on 2003 models!). It appears that the cable is clean at ends and makes good contact onto body, but if you look under the sleeve, it has corroded to the...

www.a2oc.net

Disconnecting starter earth cable (starter side)

Hello everyone, Just wondering whether it's possible to disconnect the starter earth cable (on the starter side) from the top of the engine (AMF). Had a poke around this morning but couldn't seem to reach the starter end from above. Any advice appreciated.

www.a2oc.net

 

[Robin_Cox]

I had exactly the same issue happened a few times whilst backing off my drive like yours.

I simply cleaned up the earth behind the passenger headlight and never had the problem re occur I have since had a replacement alternator, so maybe it was an early sign of that was about to fail.

If you haven`t, clean the earth strap and see what happens, that`s a free fix.

Mucky earth contact will manifest itself with poor cranking before getting to the steering drop-out stage - obvious question for the original poster - is the startup cranking speed also compromised?

Two for one! You are correct; you could do both jobs at the same time.
Remember to clean the other end of the ground cable at the gearbox (or where it may be attached, I not too sure).

Information - Electrical - A2 earth points

Attached are pictures for the Earth Points on the A2 :cool: NOTE: 1.6FSi Owners I have found that these cables are faulty in 3 cases (all on 2003 models!). It appears that the cable is clean at ends and makes good contact onto body, but if you look under the sleeve, it has corroded to the...

www.a2oc.net

Disconnecting starter earth cable (starter side)

Hello everyone, Just wondering whether it's possible to disconnect the starter earth cable (on the starter side) from the top of the engine (AMF). Had a poke around this morning but couldn't seem to reach the starter end from above. Any advice appreciated.

www.a2oc.net

it runs from the chassis leg to the starter motor. It is only really easily visible with the UK passenger side headlight out, below the ABS / a/c pipework and behind where the lid for the steering pump reservoir is.

 

[Indi]

Or in a similar vein to the alternator, it can also be a dead battery, though you’d probably also have problems trying to start it if left for more than 2 or 3 days between drives.

 

[q292u]

If I leave it about a week, I need to charge it. Hmm. Let's see if I can source a second hand higher capacity battery.

 

[Indi]

If I leave it about a week, I need to charge it. Hmm. Let's see if I can source a second hand higher capacity battery.

Mine was in bad shape, it had been sat for months and the battery had completely drained, was never the same after that…
I didn’t change the battery for a while, push starting it if it was dead, but when I eventually did it completely fixed it for me.

I had changed the alternator 6 months earlier

 

[bix]

Absolutely best thing to do would be just scan the car with VCDS and see what codes pops out otherwise you will just waste your time and money fixing or replacing parts which are just fine. If you don't have VCDS have a look if someone who lives close to you got one and can come over to scan your car. It'll take just 5 minutes and you will have a good picture what is actually going on.

 

[Deleted member 20348]

Hi,
To find info on an engine fault code you may use an AI search, instructions can be found in this link.

AI driven search

Hi Whilst we can’t afford to run our own fine tuned AI model, you can use Bing Chat’s AI driven search for finding content on the A2OC, together with references. For example, if you are using Bing Chat (either in the Edge desktop browser or using the Bing app in your phone), you can ask a...

www.a2oc.net

Alternatively a Google search that starts with A2oc followed by the fault code or the Ross-tech website has a Google search bar for specific fault codes.

Good luck

 

[Deleted member 20348]

When you say "behind the passenger headlight", does this mean removing the headlight?
Because that would also give me access to the PAS reservoir for topping up..?

 

[Robin_Cox]

View attachment 121396

If it looks like that after you've taken off the headlight, may I suggest a bit less coffee before starting?

Yes - undo, disconnect, and withdraw the headlamp casing from where it is fixed. This will give access to both the reservoir (although it is a bit of a drop vertically with the steel front end support bar still in situ), so having a funnel or tube to pour fluid in makes life easier, particularly if it is a windy day) - and the earth point - follow the upper surface of the chassis leg back to where it bolts onto the more substantial casting and the cable is bolted onto the upper surface of this. There is space to fit a socket extension to the head of the bolt ; the ratchet handle ends up being about where the headlamp front surface would be.