Teresa
Social Secretary
Ahh, thank you Paul
Today I.....
- Thread starter sco
- Start date
Teresa
Social Secretary
Thank you Andrew
sco
A2OC Donor
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Today I, after 15 years of ownership and 150K miles, topped 60 mpg. 320 motorway miles at around 70 mph, sometimes less, sometimes more with the occasional sprint to keep things safe - 62 mpg
The last time I managed 60 mpg at 70 mph was back in 1984 in a new Mini City E.
The last time I managed 60 mpg at 70 mph was back in 1984 in a new Mini City E.
Away with the fairys
Member
Today i unpacked a box ...
Please find the keys parts of the 1.2 tdi aero kit for BASIL , whom should be returning home at the weekend , after 13 weeks in WOMs works shop ....
Still trying to track down the central exhaust cover .... so if anybody has a spare kicking around ....
Please find the keys parts of the 1.2 tdi aero kit for BASIL , whom should be returning home at the weekend , after 13 weeks in WOMs works shop ....
Still trying to track down the central exhaust cover .... so if anybody has a spare kicking around ....
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Vorsprung durch Technik
A2OC Donor
Today I, after 15 years of ownership and 150K miles, topped 60 mpg. 320 motorway miles at around 70 mph, sometimes less, sometimes more with the occasional sprint to keep things safe - 62 mpg
The last time I managed 60 mpg at 70 mph was back in 1984 in a new Mini City E.
Can only think the mini was a petrol? If so amazing mpgs from 35 years ago.
Little Dog
A2OC Donor
Yes it did it with a petrol engine, quite troublesome, I had to carry spare plugs and ignition components but it did it. 60 mpg @ 70 mph or 70 mpg @ 60 mph. Unfortumatly I crashed it and the 85 City E that I replaced it with, and still have, never came anywhere near.
tdiquattro
Active Member
sciroccorrado (Jeremy) has one brand new I gave him, not sure if he is going to fit it, worth asking.
sciroccorrado
A2OC Donor
I do believe I do actually, I'd forgotten about that! If I remember I'll drop it down at WOM when I'm next there (shouldn't be too long), unless you fancy a visit to Bromley Towers
sciroccorrado
A2OC Donor
I was just thinking exactly the same this morning as I cleared my windscreen. Swapping over to Winter tyres this weekend...
bretti_kivi
Member
it's been -5 all week up here....
- Bret
- Bret
trevorswaine
Member
Winter tyres went on today !
Gary - G
Member
Finished fitting a cambelt kit, water pump and serpentine belt to my TDI 75 yesterday, as well as a 7k oil and filter change.
Also stripped, cleaned & lubricated the starter motor and refaced the brushes.
Replaced a leaking cv boot too.
It may be my imagination, but the engine seems to run much better now and the starter definitely spins it over more quickly.
Result... ?
Also stripped, cleaned & lubricated the starter motor and refaced the brushes.
Replaced a leaking cv boot too.
It may be my imagination, but the engine seems to run much better now and the starter definitely spins it over more quickly.
Result... ?
Away with the fairys
Member
Hi , if you have no use for it , I will swing round and collect , Basil should be leaving the care of WOM , on Saturday, fingers crossed !I do believe I do actually, I'd forgotten about that! If I remember I'll drop it down at WOM when I'm next there (shouldn't be too long), unless you fancy a visit to Bromley Towers
sciroccorrado
A2OC Donor
I'll be around most of the daytime on Saturday. Me and @Proghound are having a "minimeet" ... PM me if you want the details.
Merlin3046
Member
Today, I finished my front suspension rebuild project. Phew. What a job (as predicted by the Kleynies). I finished up replacing:
Strut top mounts (SE spec in lieu of Sport spec)
Struts (Koni frequency-selective sort all round),
Front springs (petrol spec based on Timmus' recommendation to go with the Konis),
Wheel bearings,
Lower arms (forged),
Rear bush for arms (again, petrol spec, hoping for softness),
LH outer CV joint
Discs and pads
As a result I have learned:
The RH strut top bolts are the worst bit of the job. What a pig. I never did find a satisfactory way of getting to them. I struggled to get the brake fluid reservoir out of the way, but that was hard as it's held in place by all the wires and tubes even when you get the mounting bracket bolts out.
Don't try to hammer out the drive shafts from the hubs. It's hard not to damage the threads (hence the new CV joint). Take the whole hub and shaft out together and get them pressed out.
Take the consoles out when changing the lower arms. The whole job becomes a doddle.
When undoing the track rod ends, expect the nuts not to come off. They're bound to get stuck on the rust at the end of the stem, and the little Torx or hex socket in the end of the stem isn't strong enough to stop it all turning. If you've got a nut splitter, then here's where it comes in. Or saw the stem off and get new TREs.
Getting the new lower arm ball joints into the hub requires a sawn-off T40 Torx driver held in a slim ring spanner to hold the stem against the torque of the Nyloc nut.
Kiwi-Fit charge like a wounded bull for setting the tracking. £63 for 15 mins' work. Mind you, the choice at 3-00pm on a Saturday is limited.
People who said my wobbly brake problem was probably caused by uneven rust on the discs were right. The discs were as smooth as a baby's bum on the outside but the inside faces looked like a war zone.
It's easy to damage the thread in the console that takes the longitudinal bolt that holds the front rubber bush in place when undoing he bolt. My local engine re-manufacturer (Randall's of Hepworth, top people) charged £20 for inserting two helicoils.
Don't expect 14-year old brake back plates to come off in one piece. I've now got two new shiny ones.
On the topic of spring choice, I think the front of the car is now riding lower than the back. Unfortunately, I didn't measure the struts before fitting them, but it seems that the new Konis don't cause the rise in front ride height that the previous model did. It's particularly noticeable that the headlights are illuminating the road immediately in front of the car. I think the new Konis need the original diesel-spec springs to keen things even. It's not enough to make we want to take the struts out again, tho'.
And now to turn the thoughts to a 6-speed 'box. That's not a job I'll be doing.
Strut top mounts (SE spec in lieu of Sport spec)
Struts (Koni frequency-selective sort all round),
Front springs (petrol spec based on Timmus' recommendation to go with the Konis),
Wheel bearings,
Lower arms (forged),
Rear bush for arms (again, petrol spec, hoping for softness),
LH outer CV joint
Discs and pads
As a result I have learned:
The RH strut top bolts are the worst bit of the job. What a pig. I never did find a satisfactory way of getting to them. I struggled to get the brake fluid reservoir out of the way, but that was hard as it's held in place by all the wires and tubes even when you get the mounting bracket bolts out.
Don't try to hammer out the drive shafts from the hubs. It's hard not to damage the threads (hence the new CV joint). Take the whole hub and shaft out together and get them pressed out.
Take the consoles out when changing the lower arms. The whole job becomes a doddle.
When undoing the track rod ends, expect the nuts not to come off. They're bound to get stuck on the rust at the end of the stem, and the little Torx or hex socket in the end of the stem isn't strong enough to stop it all turning. If you've got a nut splitter, then here's where it comes in. Or saw the stem off and get new TREs.
Getting the new lower arm ball joints into the hub requires a sawn-off T40 Torx driver held in a slim ring spanner to hold the stem against the torque of the Nyloc nut.
Kiwi-Fit charge like a wounded bull for setting the tracking. £63 for 15 mins' work. Mind you, the choice at 3-00pm on a Saturday is limited.
People who said my wobbly brake problem was probably caused by uneven rust on the discs were right. The discs were as smooth as a baby's bum on the outside but the inside faces looked like a war zone.
It's easy to damage the thread in the console that takes the longitudinal bolt that holds the front rubber bush in place when undoing he bolt. My local engine re-manufacturer (Randall's of Hepworth, top people) charged £20 for inserting two helicoils.
Don't expect 14-year old brake back plates to come off in one piece. I've now got two new shiny ones.
On the topic of spring choice, I think the front of the car is now riding lower than the back. Unfortunately, I didn't measure the struts before fitting them, but it seems that the new Konis don't cause the rise in front ride height that the previous model did. It's particularly noticeable that the headlights are illuminating the road immediately in front of the car. I think the new Konis need the original diesel-spec springs to keen things even. It's not enough to make we want to take the struts out again, tho'.
And now to turn the thoughts to a 6-speed 'box. That's not a job I'll be doing.
Merlin3046
Member
Oh, yes, and I learned that the car now rides MUCH better.
I finally got mine back on the road today as well and similarly took it for wheel alignment set-up on a Hunter machine. A bit of overkill as the A2 can only have front alignment, but at least it was accurate. Nice to have the car back in use - I took it off the road to do the work at the end of April!