Today I.....

New radio is in and works on ignition. Reverse, remote, "handbrake" are all connected. Switched and permanent live, too. Tomorrow, then, power to the amps, cable those up, and drop the speakers into the doors. Illumination live also needs connected. Hopefully then I might get my stuff for the RGB upgrade...

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Today I started getting payback from the ColourDIS in my yellow Storm.

For the first time since it was fitted, this morning I got the EML - maybe it didn't like the cold night. The EML has been up on occasions before: from previous code-reads by owners of VCDS it has always been the ASV, and has gone away on its own after a while. Today though the EML was accompanied by a lack of power.

Thanks to ColourDIS I was able to read the codes in the car and, on looking them up on the Ross-Tech wiki, sure enough the ASV was there but also this time the N75 turbo control valve, hence no turbo. What I really like though was that I could clear the codes, they didn't come back on starting back up, and a quick test drive confirmed it was back to normal. That's one to keep an eye on obviously, but it's good to have the ability to get out of that situation.

Next job for it will be to graph the output from my ABS sensors, to see if I can prove that the traction control is coming on around sharp right-hand bends (of which I seem to have quite a few on my regular routes) thanks to the offside front sensor losing contact with the marker in the hub. The same bends taken in the other direction produce not a murmur of discontent.
 
@Proghound For the N75 check the rubber / plastic pipes that go from the N75 to the turbo and to the waste gate as they can split, perish and become loose, the third pipe feed back into the air manifold. Also check the little rubber right angled connector on the N75 valve as it can perish and leak. With the N75 it only takes a very small leak to shut the system down. If you still have original Audi braided rubber pipes the green one is the pressure line from the turbo to the N75.
 
yay, so that didn't work. First the RCAs were the wrong way around, then the amp power connection is... not pleasant. And I want to put the M6 ring on the fused side, which won't work with the amount of copper visible inside the ring. More soldering with the 100W iron tomorrow.
Speaker rings also don't work (this is why I wanted a tester or two). Need to flip the top rings so they're above the screw holes, not below. That will take a bunch of the weekend on the router table.
 
Removed the headlights and popped the fronts of to clean and refurbish, its a VERY early car and there was geen inside the lens and the outsides are a bit rough and opaque. MOT due next week.
 
carbore said:
Removed the headlights and popped the fronts of to clean and refurbish, its a VERY early car and there was geen inside the lens and the outsides are a bit rough and opaque. MOT due next week.
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Get the wet and set out. Start with 400 grit in warm soapy water and sand the light unit out side until all the deep marks are gone. Then move to 800 grit again wet then upto 1200 grit at which point it will be looking a bit cloudy. Then apply a few coats of clear lacquer ideally 2K Don’t apply the first coat too dry
The clear lacquer will make the ‘glass’ look crystal clear

Cheers. Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Not today but last Friday made it back from France covering 4000 miles in 2 months - Wayne did us proud and averaged a solid 50+ mpg. Topped up with fuel in Spain at 0.875euro a litre cheapest fuel I've seen for 10 years I think. Cruize control was well used. Managed 32 bottles of wine in the rear footwells but they stacked very neatly.
 
ashley7715 said:
Not today but last Friday made it back from France covering 4000 miles in 2 months - Wayne did us proud and averaged a solid 50+ mpg. Topped up with fuel in Spain at 0.875euro a litre cheapest fuel I've seen for 10 years I think. Cruize control was well used. Managed 32 bottles of wine in the rear footwells but they stacked very neatly.
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Any photos of the journey? Seeing as most of us are in lockdown it would be nice to see an A2 in some scenic surroundings!
 
dieselfan said:
Nice ? Captain059 : Do you know the partnumber?

Thanks
dieselfan
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I do
8Z0863476 4PK. The 4PK refers to Sabre Black.
You can get it from Audi Tradition. I tried in the past from UK but my payment was turned down every time. Since I am working in France, I tried again and was delivered in 2 days (what pandemic !?!?) :rolleyes:
I can help if any one needs.

edit: Tom was quicker than me.
 
Paid the £2 to join the club, continued my losing battle with CCCU and reassembled my headlights I cleaned to refit in the net few days.
 
Today I drove home in our 2016 VW Touran after having a service, including flushing out the standard gearbox oil with Red line MT-LV.

The Touran essentially has a similar gearbox to the MYP, PTU, NRG and PTW six speeds, the difference in gear change quality, especially when cold, is unbelievable! So I would definitely recommend using this stuff to those who are converting their A2 to six gears using this family of gearboxes.

As this oil is lower viscosity (yet with equal or superior protection) compared with the standard oil, there is an alleged mpg benefit too, although very slight I’m sure.

i also had the engine filled with Millers EE nanodrive 5w/30, so now both Touran and A2 are running the same oils in both components.
 
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