Today I.....

I've never heard of a melting dashboard, even in southern Europe. What does happen though, is that the effect of the heat/UV damage over time causes the plastic of the dashboard to become brittle and crack easily - again, this happens more frequently in hotter climates. All the cracked dashes I've heard of have been in places like Greece, Spain, Portugal, even one in Australia (where there are a handful of A2's).
 
I've never heard of a melting dashboard, even in southern Europe. What does happen though, is that the effect of the heat/UV damage over time causes the plastic of the dashboard to become brittle and crack easily - again, this happens more frequently in hotter climates. All the cracked dashes I've heard of have been in places like Greece, Spain, Portugal, even one in Australia (where there are a handful of A2's).
In UK should be okay then, cheers.
 
As we've entered summer and the weather is getting warmer, the question comes us about the possibly melting dashboards.
What's the view on it? I'd never experienced anything like that, apart from getting hot to touch.
Is it more likely outside UK, where the temperatures go over 30C on regular basis or we all should put heat reflectors om the dash?
Last year when we had 30C and temperatures inside a car can be considerably higher I started putting white foam board over the dash. I being doing it again the last week.
 

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After yesterdays great help from Drew @datsundrew changing the shocks and springs, I put back the wheel arch liners. My liners are fixed with a mixture of the original Audi self tapping screws (that I again painted with Krust) and stainless steel bolts and fasteners with captive nuts. Unfortunately I lost some of the inserts on the plastic push fasteners so I improvised using small plastic wall plugs as inserts.

With the wheels off it made sense to give the axle it's annual (or so) soaking in Krust.

NS applied Krust backplate lr.jpg
OS applied Krust arm lr.jpg


Tomorrow I'll take it for a spin after seeing to the bit I missed!

PS yesterday I washed and waxed the wheels on both sides.
 
How did you raise the rear like that? I can't see axle stands? Thanks
I used the normal jack and then put a ramp under the wheel and slightly rest the hubs on it. I briefly pulled the ramp back to take the photo. The ramp is under the newspapers. I also place the jack on a rubber mat to reduce the chance of slipping, I also chock one wheel with bricks either side and in gear and handbrake well on.

I don't have stands and feel safer with the ramp under the hub though I've never done any heavy work while jacked up.
 
After some strange errors and poor running I resorted to the old solution of checking the earth's around the vehicle. I had the nearside headlamp off and all looked good.
But I should have gone to the obvious first! The smaller cable from battery positive was floating around. I think I need Loctite or a second nut to secure that lead.
And now it is starting and running perfectly once more.
Booked car in for a full service and to replace all shocks and rear springs at 196k. Hopefully it will be much more comfortable and the sagging rear suspension will be revived.
 
After some strange errors and poor running I resorted to the old solution of checking the earth's around the vehicle. I had the nearside headlamp off and all looked good.
But I should have gone to the obvious first! The smaller cable from battery positive was floating around. I think I need Loctite or a second nut to secure that lead.
And now it is starting and running perfectly once more.
Booked car in for a full service and to replace all shocks and rear springs at 196k. Hopefully it will be much more comfortable and the sagging rear suspension will be revived.
By the way I need to order new springs. Are any brands preferable at the moment? Good offers anywhere? 1.4 TDI SE 75bhp 2005 no OSS.
 
After some strange errors and poor running I resorted to the old solution of checking the earth's around the vehicle. I had the nearside headlamp off and all looked good.
But I should have gone to the obvious first! The smaller cable from battery positive was floating around. I think I need Loctite or a second nut to secure that lead.
And now it is starting and running perfectly once more.
Booked car in for a full service and to replace all shocks and rear springs at 196k. Hopefully it will be much more comfortable and the sagging rear suspension will be revived.
A spring washer might be the easiest solution
 
So having seen this recent post by @Riba ā€¦


ā€¦ I decided to tackle my throttle body today, having bought in new gaskets last year. As is now customary for me I watched the how to video by @mtl first.

Mine was in a similarly filthy state!

Before After

5BD25D78-FA57-4F10-9747-182DD77AADA3.jpeg 2DF94967-706A-427B-B160-210771AD2B22.jpeg

So what did I learn?

Itā€™s a bit tight in there and having ā€œolderā€ hands that donā€™t always do as I say doesnā€™t help
Being a hot day does help, all the plastic and rubber bits can be easily disconnected and re-connected

Final shot of things going back in. As per the video I also cleaned up the, whatever itā€™s called that the EGR pipe connects to, seen here with the new gasket in place

B821C6DA-5CAB-4795-B9C1-9798B71FDE87.jpeg
 
Yes as per you video, followed to the letter!
I took my 1.4 BBY 2003 to an Audi specialist for a service and an engine light, when I collected the car the EML was still on, he said it needs an EGR valve. Since the service I purchased from Audi the parts needed, and I`m Ā£275 lighter the parts sitting on the dining table, cause the EML light has gone.
Maybe a throttle body and EGR valve cleaned would have solved my problem.

I`ve never considered it because I don`t have the equipment for the adaption.
 
I took my 1.4 BBY 2003 to an Audi specialist for a service and an engine light, when I collected the car the EML was still on, he said it needs an EGR valve. Since the service I purchased from Audi the parts needed, and I`m Ā£275 lighter the parts sitting on the dining table, cause the EML light has gone.
Maybe a throttle body and EGR valve cleaned would have solved my problem.

I`ve never considered it because I don`t have the equipment for the adaption.
Iā€™m no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. If you did want to have a go yourself have a look at the VCDS register


Hopefully someone on there that is near to you that would be able to cover adaption for you and check out the video my @mtl


He has kindly done videos covering all manner of useful topics
 
I`ve never considered it because I don`t have the equipment for the adaption.
You can still do the work yourself and limp the car to the nearest mechanic (can be independend) to make the adaptation. It should not charge you a lot.
If you do not find anyone with VCDS near you.
 
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