As Paul says, you've got to take a look! It's really not that bad. As you know, I took my scuttle trim off as the wiper arm was off anyway, so did the 'air duct removed' method rather than the advanced 'grope around in the dark' method of the experts here.
Tools other than very standard stuff:
Pipe pliers to undo quick-clamps on various hoses.
Small torx (20/25?) for two screws for vent duct hidden under scuttle trim.
6mm allen with short side cut down to about 15mm overall.
5mm allen, longer the better but if standard size just refer to pic on my Break/Bale thread.
If you've got a T30 torx 'screwdriver' that works perfectly to quickly un-wind / loosely wind in the 5mm's.
Old container to wash the thing in. Use gloves!! The gunk basically turns to black ink.
Can carb / throttle body cleaner. Bit of old petrol from the mower.
Your neighbour's toothbrush.
Points of note from my vast experience (doing it once):
Wiper arm very much seized: well worth making sure you have a suitable puller available. I used a small conventional / general purpose one, but you can get dedicated wiper ones. Regardless, a few days before pop of the plastic plugs, undo the nuts and dose up the area with penetrating fluid. Before using car, pop the nuts back on otherwise you'll get caught out!
Scuttle trim: remove bonnet seal. It's not obvious, but the back of the trim sits downwards in a channel that is pointing up to the sky, not forwards towards the front of the car. Start at one end and just work it out of the channel bit by bit.
Duct was a pain to get out: notes on my thread.
One of two torx hidden under scuttle trim was so rusted head was barely visible so had to Dremel it off. Was able to then Mole-Grip the remaining bit out later and put a self tapper with washer on at refit.
Once duct out of the way, you're really well on the way.
Only other thing of note was the flexi exhaust pipe that comes in from underneath (held by the 6mm's) gets in the way of the lower front 5mm. Rather than trying to pull it down I found it easier to slide it rearwards a little. Therefore undo the 6mm's first.
@depronman will confirm whether you need to block off the vacuum hose to stop the EGR from being activated again. Paul?
I blocked mine by means of the MIG welder, but it's being mapped out anyway.
Like all these things, as you're working outside, give the job a good dose of looking at over a couple of evenings or whatever so that you're 100% clear on where you're heading.
If it wasn't for the lock-down I'd say come over to mine and we could do it here. Two or three hours at a very leisurely pace would do it. I owe you a favour ?
This thread is excellent btw, and showed me everything:
Am bravely or stupidly trying to swap my damaged Turbo but got about 20% into the project today and then started to mildly panic. I was not sure that the turbo would come out without removing extra things on the car to make way for it and was wondering if anyone who has done it could give me...
www.a2oc.net
. I’ll credit that to the warmer weather, remap and an Italian tune up, rather than the 4 wheel alignment, Redex treatment and refitting of the undertray. Still trying to work out whether it’s worth the pain of removing and cleaning of the EGR valve to try to improve that figure.
I have read through your thread on removal several times and later on will give it a go. Keep an eye on the 'Wanted' section: if it's full of requests for OSS bits, you'll know it didn't go as well as I'd hoped 
. I’ll credit that to the warmer weather, remap and an Italian tune up, rather than the 4 wheel alignment, Redex treatment and refitting of the undertray. Still trying to work out whether it’s worth the pain of removing and cleaning of the EGR valve to try to improve that figure.
