Today I.....

I think they really suit the A2 very well. If you’ve an ultra-rare (UK anyway) 1.2 - why not advertise it. 😊 This is coming from someone who loves alloys and larger sizes. Biggest compliment I can give. 😊
I’ll take that 😊

I’ve gotta be honest Darren, for a long time I simply didn’t like the look of the 1.2 at all. Even now I still very much prefer the lowered with a larger wheel look on an A2 and I was really worried putting these on would accentuate that as I don’t like them on my dads black one. But somehow on the silver car, for me, they’ve improved the aesthetic so in chuffed.
 
I’m an OEM plus type typically mate, but I have a purist side too. The 1.2 epitomises the design ethos of the A2 better than any other model - stripped bare and devoid of luxuries to save weight and improve economy. One to embrace, and that includes wheel trims and narrow wheels and tyres. 😊

I’ll take that 😊

I’ve gotta be honest Darren, for a long time I simply didn’t like the look of the 1.2 at all. Even now I still very much prefer the lowered with a larger wheel look on an A2 and I was really worried putting these on would accentuate that as I don’t like them on my dads black one. But somehow on the silver car, for me, they’ve improved the aesthetic so in chuffed.
 
Have you ever seen 1.4 petrol "sport" air filter that cost over £60? Also claims to add hp. Today you can :/

Today I ( well yesterday actually ). Took our A2 for Timmus to Scan Fault Codes as it had been not consistently Starting since Saturday. Faults were Crankshaft Position Sensor and Camshaft Position Sensor. Reset for now and Starting OK. Timmus plan is to wait and see if one or the other comes up again first, otherwise “ play Parts Darts “ to see if changing one or the other, or both fixes it. Any other ideas please ?

Steve U
 
Today I ( well yesterday actually ). Took our A2 for Timmus to Scan Fault Codes as it had been not consistently Starting since Saturday. Faults were Crankshaft Position Sensor and Camshaft Position Sensor. Reset for now and Starting OK. Timmus plan is to wait and see if one or the other comes up again first, otherwise “ play Parts Darts “ to see if changing one or the other, or both fixes it. Any other ideas please ?

Steve U
If it fails to start at all I think I would go for crank sensor, if it starts eventually cam sensor. Having been though this on and off for a while, I can say that the cam sensor is quite easy to swap. They also have more than one failure mode and at least one of those gives no error at all.
 
Seconding both of the replies you already have

Ecu will work around the cam sensor if it fails totally which results in longer cranking before the ecu works out which cylinder is on the injection stroke (with the cam and cranks sensor working the ecu as worked out the cylinder on the injection stroke after only a few degrees of crank rotation hence the much quicker starting)

Cheers paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Who will first spot something new? :)

Audi A2 ....jpg
 
Who will first spot something new? :)

View attachment 93236
A2s until 2002 carried over the original dipstick hole from the polo 1.4 engine, it was only covered by a blue plastic cap. You'd literally use the Polo's base cone and oil stick, which is flat so shows the level wonderfully. That is rather useful knowing the issues with the A2s front dipstick, mine was also broken as well.
Later models had that hole permanently welded up.

Luckily I've got the same on my A2, the innacurate front dipstick used to cause too much headache, so I'd managed to buy the Polo's cone and stick and I've been using them for 2 years now.

Bit of advice:
It's not OEM A2 design, so unfortunately it comes with 2 downsides.
(1): I'd measured it a few times and looks like the Polo's dipstick 1/4" shorter than the A2's at same level, which means the medium level on Polo's, actually full on A2. So I keep it between minimum and half-full, because when I fill oil to max, feels like the engine struggles a bit with too much oil. I can send you the measurements if you wanna check it yourself.

(2): The distick end will rub against the air-intake during driving, so eventually it will carve a hole on the side of the tube. I've patched the hole up with amalgane tape and put a clamp over it, to prevent more issues. See pic, clamp shown below the blue masking tape.

Apart from these small issues, the 2nd dipstick is a great extra.
 

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Exactly, finally I can have an easy and reliable oil reading.
Bit of advice:
It's not OEM A2 design, so unfortunately it comes with 2 downsides.
(1): I'd measured it a few times and looks like the Polo's dipstick 1/4" shorter than the A2's at same level, which means the medium level on Polo's, actually full on A2. So I keep it between minimum and half-full, because when I fill oil to max, feels like the engine struggles a bit with too much oil. I can send you the measurements if you wanna check it yourself.
My brother has Ibiza 2003 with BBY engine and before installation I have compared the lenght of the dipstick and it is identical. Have you pushed the cone completely down? Because I have removed the air intake to install it, otherwise I was not able to grip it and push down enough. I have also just replaced the oil and put a minimal quantity in and it showed just above minimum, which would correspond with the multiple unreliable and all over the place readings from the factory oil dipstic. But good advice, I usually top up the oil up to the maximum mark, I will now top it up only until the middle, just in case.

(2): The distick end will rub against the air-intake during driving, so eventually it will carve a hole on the side of the tube. I've patched the hole up with amalgane tape and put a clamp over it, to prevent more issues. See pic, clamp shown below the blue masking tape.
Mine does not rub at all, it has cca. 1 cm of space from the air intake.

Btw.: I bought Topran dipstick and cone and I had to sand down a little bit the cone, so that the dipstick was easily removable. Otherwise I would probably brake the cone. This is the aftermarket parts ''problem''.
 
Seconding both of the replies you already have

Ecu will work around the cam sensor if it fails totally which results in longer cranking before the ecu works out which cylinder is on the injection stroke (with the cam and cranks sensor working the ecu as worked out the cylinder on the injection stroke after only a few degrees of crank rotation hence the much quicker starting)

Cheers paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It’s a 1.4 Petrol BBY by the way. Not tried driving it again. I can’t due to a Ruptured Right Achilles Tendon. Mrs does not want to drive it in case it breaks down. I have tried starting it several times since Timmus kindly did the Scan and Reset. Started straight away every time, so far !

Steve U
 
It’s a 1.4 Petrol BBY by the way. Not tried driving it again. I can’t due to a Ruptured Right Achilles Tendon. Mrs does not want to drive it in case it breaks down. I have tried starting it several times since Timmus kindly did the Scan and Reset. Started straight away every time, so far !

Steve U

Quite likely that the cam sensor is the faulty part and it will likely behave when cold and start to fail when hot/warm

Time will tell

Paul


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This was us mid way to the 2019 Scottish social - MK to Carlisle. Four on board and fully loaded boot. I don't expect the accuracy to be bob on either, but I was happy enough to pretend otherwise in my FSI.

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I don't know if I believe this, my FSI today and the driving was not restrained, 240miles of nearly all motorway/ dual carriageway/fast A roads.

View attachment 93262

Andy
 
saw my A2 is free of snow again. Now to work out what's going to happen with it... still a long way to go before summer tyres are on.
In the UK, a few times this week already showing +15 during daytime, I reckon most already changed back to summer tyres around here, especially around South UK. In a couple of weeks the weather should turn warmer over there as well, unless you leave up North.
 
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