Trouble with remote keys

Here's a thought, though: my boss has the full Carly subscription. Would that be able to do the same?
Only if it supports all VAG specific codes, no knowledge if it does.
The free version of VCDS is a good start, under a tenner for the lead, (bit more for Gendan), and any old, (or new), Windows laptop, XP - 11.
Mac
 
Perhaps your keys are also newer than your comfort control unit. I have an old CCU, which works on a slightly different frequency, so getting keys is not so easy. Just post your CCU suffix and an item code from one of your keys, and we can all post an opinion on if they match (or not).

I have a number of keys that should work, but don't, as I ignored the 'D' on the end of the item code.....
Newbie question: where do I find the code on the key?
 

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Good Afternoon,

As your car is new to you, have the keys ever worked using the remote function?

And
Previous owner says the keys haven't had good batteries in them for at least 2 years.. can't remember if they worked remotely..
 
Newbie question: where do I find the code on the key?
The code is in your third photo directly above the CE mark. It starts 8Z0 but the 8 is under a layer of dirt. You don't have the 'D' suffix. I suspect that your car's original CCCU has been replaced with a newer generation one by a previous owner, but they never got the newer generation fobs to go with it. The good news is that this can all be sorted, several people on the forum can help you, I'm sure someone will chime in soon enough.
 
A good idea to confirm Ian's suspicion. Gain access to the front passenger footwell (lift carpet and release the quarter turn finger/thumb fixings of silver cover) and post a picture like this.

1701451365960.png


Andy
 
The keys with a 'D' suffix need a double letter CCCU suffix, e.g.. AF. Without the key D suffix need a single letter CCCU suffix, e.g. Q.

Andy
So, we have established that neither of my keys have a D suffix.. how do I find the CCU Code? (Remember, Newbie..)
 
So, we have established that neither of my keys have a D suffix.. how do I find the CCU Code? (Remember, Newbie..)
That's why I suggested a picture. The CCCU is the box in the top right in the picture with part number 8Z0959433E in this case.

Andy
 
That's why I suggested a picture. The CCCU is the box in the top right in the picture with part number 8Z0959433E in this case.

Andy
I'll have a go tomorrow. It's currently below zero, with freezing fog out there!
 
That's why I suggested a picture. The CCCU is the box in the top right in the picture with part number 8Z0959433E in this case.

Andy
Hi. Looks like I have the right cccu.. it has a Q code on it, see pics. However, the red connector isn't plugged in. And there are two blocks of electronics just lying on the floor. I assume this is not normal?
 

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Definitely something odd going on. Wonder what the rechargeable battery, 6 volts I think, is doing?
Is the red connector cover just pulled back, or is the connector itself out?
Mac.
 
Indeed, the cccu looks original based on dates and model suitability

No idea what the other stuff is, especially with the battery. I see the lower box is branded Motorola, so I wonder if someone was trying to implement Bluetooth or suchlike, however there is no relationship with the cccu in that regard.

Tricky, but see if you can make any sense of what/where those boxes are connected. Some of the coloured connectors in there are obvious (the white block is mainly cruise control for example), so there may be a hint.

The cccu’s do fail, with the locking and interior lights etc playing up for ceasing, so maybe yours has failed and someone tried an ‘alternative’ fix.

You could just try to plug in the red connector and try the remotes, but it all depends on what someone has actually done……

Matt.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
A quick google search shows it is a Mercedes car tracker. Thus the battery. Perhaps disconnecting this is a good idea…..

Probably safe to plug in the red connector but look for any ‘adjustment’ of wiring associated with it.
IMG_2344.png



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Indeed, the cccu looks original based on dates and model suitability

No idea what the other stuff is, especially with the battery. I see the lower box is branded Motorola, so I wonder if someone was trying to implement Bluetooth or suchlike, however there is no relationship with the cccu in that regard.

Tricky, but see if you can make any sense of what/where those boxes are connected. Some of the coloured connectors in there are obvious (the white block is mainly cruise control for example), so there may be a hint.

The cccu’s do fail, with the locking and interior lights etc playing up for ceasing, so maybe yours has failed and someone tried an ‘alternative’ fix.

You could just try to plug in the red connector and try the remotes, but it all depends on what someone has actually done……

Matt.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Is the red connector actually out, or is it just that the shell has been removed to add a connection to the tracker?
Mac.
 
The red plug is completely disconnected from the CCCU. What does the red plug do?
Secondly, the tracker appears to be directly connected to the wiring loom.. not sure how I'm going to deal with that. (without messing something else up)
 
Tricky. As the tracker is a real 'interloper', I would expect it will have no action on any part of the A2 system if taken out.

This is not advice, but if it was my car, after disconnecting the battery, I would take note of the tracker cabling (colours etc), and cut the cables with enough length to be able to rejoin (highly unlikley to need to), and insulate the ends of all wires attached to the loom.
I would then plug in the red connector, reconnect the battery, and see what happens. I would expect all to be well, but the keys may need reprogrammed as per the instructions up the thread.

However, you will need to make your own decision......

There are some real experts on this site, so others may have a more professional suggestion.

Or go to an auto-electrician and spend the bucks!

Very interesting problem you have. I wonder if there is an aerial somewhere also, as where the tracker unit is located, I would be surprised there is any coverage.
 
Tricky. As the tracker is a real 'interloper', I would expect it will have no action on any part of the A2 system if taken out.

This is not advice, but if it was my car, after disconnecting the battery, I would take note of the tracker cabling (colours etc), and cut the cables with enough length to be able to rejoin (highly unlikley to need to), and insulate the ends of all wires attached to the loom.
I would then plug in the red connector, reconnect the battery, and see what happens. I would expect all to be well, but the keys may need reprogrammed as per the instructions up the thread.

However, you will need to make your own decision......

There are some real experts on this site, so others may have a more professional suggestion.

Or go to an auto-electrician and spend the bucks!

Very interesting problem you have. I wonder if there is an aerial somewhere also, as where the tracker unit is located, I would be surprised there is any coverage.
My course of action would be exactly as @Oskar suggests.
Mac.
 
The red plug is completely disconnected from the CCCU. What does the red plug do?
Secondly, the tracker appears to be directly connected to the wiring loom.. not sure how I'm going to deal with that. (without messing something else up)
Good Afternoon,

What do you mean by "directly connected to the wiring loom"?

Surmise the factory loom was unwrapped and the kit's extra wires added and rewrapped. If so simply unwrap and remove and rewrap.

Andy
 
Good Afternoon,

What do you mean by "directly connected to the wiring loom"?

Surmise the factory loom was unwrapped and the kit's extra wires added and rewrapped. If so simply unwrap and remove and rewrap.

Andy
Ifyou can list the colours of most of the wires that go to the red connector, I'll look at the circuit schematic, to see what they do. I'd like to know this before doing anything.
If that checks out OK, I'd then go for minimal disturbance of the OEM wiring.
Dissconect the car's battery.
Any tracker wires that connect to the tracker with a connector, should be unplugged, (and insulated if there are exposed contacts).
Any wires that connect to the battery are likely to have a female spade connector, which can be removed from the two, (+ & -), male spades on the battery, and insulated.
If any tracker wires remain, cut and insulate them.
The tracker and the battery should now be able to be removed.
Lastly, plug the red connector back into the CCU.
Now reconnect the battery🤞
Mac.
 
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