Chat What are your A2 plans for 2018?

I'd love to know how they do a proper check of the timing belt at service time? Rubber used in the construction of the belt will perish over time hence a time limit advisory in the UK.

It's impossible to properly inspect a timing belt without removing it to look into the bases of the teeth.
 
Michael, one reason for me having asked the question is I know you also have a 90/ATL. I thought you had recently mentioned that you had changed the timing belt on your car at longer than 5 years/60,000 miles, but I haven’t been able to find that post using the forum software search function.

For what it is worth, page 15 of the Audi Service Schedule book supplied with my car states 120,000km / 80,000 miles, no mention of time period. At some point on this forum, Tony/A2Cars wrote that this had changed to 5 years/60,000 miles.

Andrew
 
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I would be interested to know what Audi UK states for the timing belt. What better source is there than the maker?

In Norway they have for VW and Audi no longer time-rectrictions for the timing-belt; only kilometers/miles as long as the car follow the prescripted service intervals at dealership.
 
Ref the timing belt question, we just had ours changed on the 1,4 petrol and as the belt came off i inspected it and it looked in excellent condition no cracking at all despite it being at least 6 1/2 years old judging by the service records and covering 45k.So in theory i could have probably used it for another 2 years and roughly 20k miles.

Halduck mentioned their belt snapped after only 2 years and 15k,sorry to hear that that's very unfortunate. If a belt has been shown to be replaced whilst that may be true many owners skimp on the rest of the important itmes that should be changed at the same time. It's extremely rare for a belt to just break on it's own accord, they are immensely strong and not just made of rubber but have high tensile fibres in them and failure is nearly always down to something else in the timing belt system that lets go ie a water pump pully or tensioner. For Halduck that would be my thoughts as to why it broke so early.

Timming belts are excellent bits of kit imho they run very quiet silent even, when tensioned correctly, and they are one of the most reliable parts of your car if you know the history. As long as pullys tensioners and water pumps are changed at the same time and there is no oil contamination a belt will easily last as long as the manufacturers state. The 80 2.6 Avant i own hadn't had a belt change in 16 years from 1994 until 2009 when i bought the car and got it done quickly. It was still in good condition but it had only covered 60k genuine miles the reason why i bought the car having hankered for a full loaded one for ages.

The above equates to naturally aspirated engines where torque values are not necessarily high. If your running a car with a turbo i wouldn't go past what the manufacturers states as the stresses involved are much greater and the chances of something letting go are higher. :eek:
 
Re timing belt: because I use an independent service garage, I have no contact with Audi to make this enquiry.

I will check with my independent in the New Year. I would expect the response to be 56,000 miles, as @Olerype has stated.

Andrew
 
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Audi UK state the cam belt should be changed at 5 years or the mileage quoted in the handbook, which ever comes first - https://www.audi.co.uk/owners-area/servicing-maintenance-mot/regular-maintenance.html
There's no mention of the 5 year life in my 2001 owners manual either

I also agree with Skipton, that it's impossible to do a meaningful inspection of the belt without removal, unless it is literally on it's last legs. At the very minimum the belt should be turned inside out and the root of the teeth inspected for hairline cracking.

Cheers Spike
 
Hi Andrew,

You're right about my recent post, but I can't find it.

In essence, I know that Audi changed their advice on TDi timing belts in the early 2000's (note, Audi UK are just an importer of the cars and are only around 20 people with offices attached to VW UK in Milton Keynes). I can't remember whether it was 60k miles and went to 80k miles, or vice versa. There is also the time stipulation due to degradation of the materials over time. If they wanted to be pedantic, they could stipulate the number of starts I suppose as it's at start-up when the belt is exposed to maximum stress - going from rest to 1000rpm in a split second. Once running, there's not much stress on the belt at all.

I changed my belt (and tensioner and water pump) around August this year, it last being done around 2009, so around 8 years ago. In this time, I'd done only around 55k miles and I knew from the last belt that it would be fine. I wanted to change the water pump though, so decided to do the belt as it had to come off to release the pump. On inspection (turning it inside out) there was absolutely no cracking of the teeth or tooth bed at all - it was perfect in every way. I could have put it back on, but as I had a new one there, with a new tensioner, I did the right thing.

I agree, the design of the cam belt is a marvel. With modern materials, it's a far better design than the old roller chain type design and if it weren't for it being endless (and so needing to have a split frame design), it would have replaced the bicycle chain and motorcycle chain long ago.
 
Doesn't the A2 TDI use the same cam belt kit as the 4 cylinder 1.9 TDI engine. If that is the case then the belt in standard tune wouldnt exactly be stressed.
 
That's true Steve so possibly they could last longer on our little 3 pots. The concern would be that the shelf life dates on the new belt packaging are there for a reason and that in time the belt material becomes brittle and less flexible. I change mine every five years and its just been done on Glyns Tiggy which has just reached its fifth anniversary.
 
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I'll be bringing this back to life :)

Teaser 1.jpg
 
For 2018, mostly just to continue refurbishment and maintenance
- new suspension all round, all original at 228,500 miles so it's all a bit tired), WOM Automotive are doing this
- new clutch, still original, but I'll investigate 6 speed conversion as well
- a few upgrades such as komfortblinker, winter pack (it's cold up here), and maybe cruise control
- possibly get a remap to get more torque
Otherwise just enjoy driving it ! far more comfortable than sister-in-law's new Mercedes A-class or older son's nearly new Alfa Romeo Guilietta.

Anyway, thanks everyone for all the help this past year, and Happy New Year to you all.
 
trevorswaine said:
For 2018, mostly just to continue refurbishment and maintenance
- new suspension all round, all original at 228,500 miles so it's all a bit tired), WOM Automotive are doing this
- new clutch, still original, but I'll investigate 6 speed conversion as well
- a few upgrades such as komfortblinker, winter pack (it's cold up here), and maybe cruise control
- possibly get a remap to get more torque
Otherwise just enjoy driving it ! far more comfortable than sister-in-law's new Mercedes A-class or older son's nearly new Alfa Romeo Guilietta.

Anyway, thanks everyone for all the help this past year, and Happy New Year to you all.
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You will need the remap if you go the 6 speed box route
You know we’re to come for the remap
Cheer


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
trevorswaine said:
- a few upgrades such as komfortblinker, winter pack (it's cold up here), and maybe cruise control
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I had my car upgraded to cruise last weekend - I'd put that first in your list of upgrades as it's so good.
I did 237 motorway / dual carriageway miles without even touching the accelerator coming back to London from Wales.
Admittedly, it was a 5 am start and no traffic, but a much more pleasant trip with cruise.
 
Bargepower said:
I had my car upgraded to cruise last weekend - I'd put that first in your list of upgrades as it's so good.
I did 237 motorway / dual carriageway miles without even touching the accelerator coming back to London from Wales.
Admittedly, it was a 5 am start and no traffic, but a much more pleasant trip with cruise.
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But have you driven the latest cars with ADAPTIVE cruise? You come up behind a car and your car automatically slows, keeping a perfect distance? I believe that if your car is also an automatic, then if the car in front moves away, then your car will keep pace, up to the set cruise speed.

David
 
Well having rescued Boxy from a certain appointment with the crusher 2 weeks ago and already done a bit with fitting 18”alloys a sports steering wheel next on the list is

Strip out the interior wet clean the carpets and standard seats.. find a set of good matts to replace the shabby ones.
Remove the beige roof lining and all fitting and change to an Alcantara charcoal roof lining and replace all fittings (sorced)
Fit new climate panel (brought)
Fit Coil overs (brought) new top mounts and drop links
Fit Drilled and grooved discs/new pads all round (brought).. paint calipers.
Window tints all round..
Source a leather interior
Source rear electric window kit
Cruise control
And a partridge in a pear tree.. It’s gonna be a busy few weeks !
 
My experience is that adaptive cruise controll eats brakes. My friend A3 with ACC required new brakes at 35k miles while my Touran is still on original brakes at 105k miles
 
Well the car will be lucky to do 3k a year and spend most of its days resting in the garage. So at that rate I should get a good 10 years out my pads lol !!


Olerype said:
My experience is that adaptive cruise controll eats brakes. My friend A3 with ACC required new brakes at 35k miles while my Touran is still on original brakes at 105k miles
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BoxyA2 said:
Well the car will be lucky to do 3k a year and spend most of its days resting in the garage. So at that rate I should get a good 10 years out my pads lol !!
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At that rate it would be probably be cheaper for you to take a taxi..
 
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