A2 1.6 FSI headache

Alan Morriss said:
I went through all of that and my personal opinion is to bite the bullet and do the injectors I'm afraid.
I was the same as you, I didn't want to but it is truly a different car now.
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I understand, Alan, but when they charge a £150 per hour at Audi here, I'll do anything to postpone that.
I still believe the problem is somewhere else.

Cheers,
Darko
 
6stings said:
You mean driving with the vcds plugged in? I can't do that myself, I installed vagcom on my old laptop with dead battery, I have to power it with the cable :)

I had a local service guy do that in May last year and they did it at Audi in Germany in June, there was no problems with the injection.

If there were, they would replace them in Germany, I'm sure, when they pulled the whole engine out.

Cheers,
Darko
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When my fsi went in for diagnosis and repair it was put on a rolling road and connected up with all the wires and sensors, the findings were fairly inconclusive in that everything was doing what it was supposed to do spark timing etc etc all was as it should be including when the injectors were operating. The injectors were removed and cleaned then replaced only for the problem to re appear. Believe me when I say I didnt want to have to spend a small fortune on new injectors and the associated work, but having done so, I'm glad I did, its now driving how it should and set for long term ownership in order to recoup some of the outlay. I'm not sure about the quoted hours for all 4 injectors to be replaced, it is by all accounts a pig of a job, but the injectors are approx £150each. I got fed up throwing money at it for this bit or the other with little or no improvement so eventually "bit the bullet".
 
Well, before I bite the bullet, I really have to learn more about this 'misfiring'.
The engine worked like a clockwork for months. I want to know what/how other things are involved in 'random misfiring', the injectors are one of many things, as I can see

image.jpg

Scanning tomorrow. I mean, deleting :)
Cheers,
Darko
 
Lovely Saturday morning, cold, dry and sunny! A perfect day for some DTC deleting!
Short trip to a nearby village and back, with the engine light still on, couldn't notice any misbehaviours at all.
A new scan done, the codes as before. Deleted, again.

a2sumo said:
It may be possible to see the duty cycle of the injectors via vcds with the engine running.
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Any 'vcds-for dummies' guide about how to do this, please?

Cheers,
Darko
 
A short update:

10 days since all DTCs were deleted, the car runs like a dream, no hickups, no problems, nothing!

How long before the ECU decides to push the DTCs again, who knows?

To me, it looks like it refuses to adapt permanently to my driving style, flashing 'easy on the throttle, you *******' :)

Cheers,
D
 
Update: 17 days and 760 km after deleting - no DTCs, nothing!

340 km today, wasn't gentle on the throttle at all, felt like a new car. Except for the dirt outside.

BAD works in misterious ways :)

Cheers,
D
 
Just a short update:
The engine light is back!

119700 km on the counter, the last time this happened it was 117760, a month ago.

The same codes, etc, etc. Did the scan with engine on and deleted all DTCs, except those about the AC, they are still there.

It's interesting that the engine changed sound, got more quiet and started to run smoothly the very moment the codes were deleted.
How to understand that?
I wonder if all this was the ECU mistery.

2000 km with no problems at all! What's going on there?
Does the ECU need a 2000 km to recognise if something is wrong?
Or, does it reach it's adaptation limit and turns back to some old stuff in it's memory?

Now I'm driving with the laptop on my back seat, just to scare the engine :)

Cheers,
Darko
 
Yes once again this is what my Fsi did for months --clear the codes and it runs well then over time it runs poorly until EML is back on. Same codes misfires in cyl2 and 4 -random misfire. Also had lean mixture code sometimes.
The reason this happens is that when you delete the codes it resets the ecu so it runs from its base settings (safe set of running parameters) the car will then learn new settings and "tune" itself. But the problem lies in the fact that you probably have one or two failing injectors that is no longer spraying the fuel correctly resulting in poor combustion-this then causes the lambda sensor to show a rich mixture and leans it back. Then you have two or more cylinders running lean. Depending on what mode the engine is running in ie stratified or conventional the car will then show a lean alarm and hence the EML comes back on.
Warning though my Fsi one day after clearing the codes just refused to start and was caughing and banging back through the air box. Hence I had to get it towed to my garage where they tried everything until finding two failed injectors. I had them all changed as I planned on keeping the car for years. Cheers Mike
 
I know, Mike. Sooner or later, I'll do it. More later, I think.

A funny thing happened yesterday: the fault codes were deleted, drove it about 40 km with no trouble at all, stopped at the petrol station, emptied one BG44K into the tank before filling it up with V-power 98.
The engine light started right after ignition. I didn't delete anything after this, drove it yesterday and today, total about 500 km, with the engine light on - no problems.

The light is still on.

Cheers,
Darko
 
I think the VW 1300S may be easier to work on and to diagnose problems - four bolts and the engine drops out with access all areas !.:)
 
I suffered all these symptoms with my FSI and after trying new low and high pressure fuel pumps, overhauled injectors etc it turned out to be a degraded seal on the fuel pressure regulating valve N276. The parts shown on the pdf attached early on in this thread (No.12 036198149A) are relatively cheap and definately worth looking at before major injector work. Once removed the damaged 'O'-ring was obvious on mine. I think from memory though the inlet manifold has to come off to get to it. Cured all my hesitation & misfire issues.
cheers
Damian


FuelPressureLocationFSI.jpg
 
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audi-l-r-u said:
I suffered all these symptoms with my FSI and after trying new low and high pressure fuel pumps, overhauled injectors etc it turned out to be a degraded seal on the fuel pressure regulating valve N276. The parts shown on the pdf attached early on in this thread (No.12 036198149A) are relatively cheap and definately worth looking at before major injector work. Once removed the damaged 'O'-ring was obvious on mine. I think from memory though the inlet manifold has to come off to get to it. Cured all my hesitation & misfire issues.
cheers
Damian

View attachment 18295
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Thanks, Damian!
Can the inlet manifold be taken off without lifting the engine up?

Cheers,
Darko
 
3 old and 1 new.
This 17699, I can't find it on the Ross-Tech list. Can you help me to identify this G83 coolant temp sensor, please?

0203 1544 scan engine on 1.jpg

Thanks,
Darko
 
Yes thats the temp sensor. Some are four pin and ive also seen two pin ones.

As far as i know the green four pin one is the correct one as in the picture.

Its also tricky to replace as it is hidden under various pipes on the gearbox side of the engine.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425625781.399608.jpg
 
manhattan$ said:
Yes thats the temp sensor. Some are four pin and ive also seen two pin ones.

As far as i know the green four pin one is the correct one as in the picture.

Its also tricky to replace as it is hidden under various pipes on the gearbox side of the engine.

View attachment 18317
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Everything's tricky under this bonnet, I have to take photos before removing anything, I can't remember what goes where.

Just clicked on local parts suplier, looks like the green sensor has 4 pins. The one with 2 pins is black (and more expensive)

Cheers
Darko
 
If you look at the shiny ribbed small pipe in the centre of the pic, its under there somewhere! You cant see it, its a feel and fit type of job

I still have a new temp sensor seal to fit as after all these years they flatten and eventually crumble = Another leak
 
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