Lupo 3l -need help

It should always start in N, even without depressing the brake, if there are no other faults preventing it. As for reverse, change the reversing switch on the gearbox. That's the most likely cause.

RAB
 
Hi. The parts I ordered arrived. I didnt know that there was physical difference between gearsticks fo Lupo 3L. I got the older version, probably for ANY engine, so i dont know if it would fit AYZ which i have? Tnx.


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ec71dfdeb298d87da82405b5f46185fa.jpg

8bf93799d34afc1bae9196968e4dde93.jpg

The first one is the one I got, the second is a pic from e-bay...


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I googled it out. I definitely got the earlier model, so i am retirning it to the seller. I sincerely hope the hydraulic pump and all the parts down to the gearbox are the same on older and newer models... I hope they are, because I cant see different versions on the internet....


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The hydraulic units and gearbox actuators are the the same, the clutch actuators are the same except for different tubing options but the tubing is interchangeable. There are two versions of the gear change unit but I would have thought that they were interchangeable - the only difference is the actual STOP position. Apart from that they function in the same way. There are different control units to cover different car option combinations.

RAB
 
Oki. Tnx. I've checked the part no. on the gangsteller thing. It's part number 085142411E. There are also part number 085142411D and part number 085142411F, but if it's as you say, the last letter is just not important... I was wondering...It arrived all connected, hydraulic unit plus gangsteller with tubes connected, sensors plugged in and all. The seller has drained the oil because of transport... Would it be wise to fill it with fudraulic fluid and leave it, or can it be left like this?
 
There are six or seven variants of the gangsteller but they are all cross compatible. No need to fill with oil, just cap the oil connections for storage.

RAB
 
Rab, have you ever encountered a gear change unit problem. I have found the newer model one for 60e, but it may be kind of stupid to buy one if mine is very unlikely to cause any problems? Do you think it would be wise to do a cambelt service? Last is done in 2010 at 170k km, now the car has 223k? When doing the service, i have heard that some big screw needs to be changed as well, but i dont remember where i have read that and what the part number is... Is it necessary to change it... Can it be just inspected for signs of wear, i mean it's a screw....


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Cambelts should be changed every four years of 90,000km, whichever occurs first, so your Lupo is overdue. Also change the water pump as it is driven by the cambelt. A kit should have the required parts, apart from the water pump. You will also need the bolts that hold the engine mount to the block as these are stretch items, as well as the locking tool kit.

RAB
 
Oki, tnx. Just now, I have ordered the kit (Conti cambelt, Inna rollers, Ruville waterpump) but there is no mention of any particular long screw that would require change? What about gearshift unit? I gather it's the same as on Audi a2 1.2tdi, which i am planninig to import very soon from Germany. Would it be wise for a person owning 2 3L's to have it as a spare part? If and when I get my hands on a nice gearbox, i wont ask whether to take it... I think it would be very wise to keep it stored...


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bought for 50e on ebay. Just need info on the long bolt that needs the replacement when doing the cambelt change :)


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2x N10691501 & 1x 10197301. I only tighten to the specified torque without stretch. Seems to work (done 7 times).

RAB
 
Hi guys. 2 questions :) 1. My Lupo 3L sometimes overrevs in first gear, then all fine when it engages the second. It' like rpms are at 2000, but the car crawls. I am the careful on the gas pedalthen, so as not to make it shift into second with a jerk?! I am planing to do the basic setting again, so maybe there was something that my mechanic missed the last time he did it, and therefore will miss again? Apart from this, all perfectly fine, 6 changes in tiptronic, smooth shifts, gearbox is silky smooth.....
2. When i jacked up the wheel and tried to spin the rear wheels, no handbrake ofc., the wheels could barely do one revolution before stopping? Is it normal? Should they spin freely? No bearing noise whatsoever, the ride noise is perfect, like a new car....
Cheers!

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Last edited:
1). Indicates a clutch problem of some sort. 2). Rear wheels should spin freely, so either the brakes shoes are binding or you have a wheel bearing problem.

RAB
 
Thank you. Would you recommend messing around with it or leaving it like this. I am more inclined to leave it as it is, because the car drives very very fine, shifts are smooth, and the car never went to neutral or skipped a gear or similar.... This happens only like twice a month, usually on an incline and a bad road... Can this be the first signs of a slipping or worn clutch? Would you recommend a new clutch? It's like this ever since i bought the car, more than a year ago, and didnt get any worse for 12000km.

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iwcham1979 said:
Can this be the first signs of a slipping or worn clutch? Would you recommend a new clutch? It's like this ever since i bought the car, more than a year ago, and didnt get any worse for 12000km.

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Could be. A way to find out is how much adjustment you have left on the cable. If there is little or no adjustment left, then the clutch is near end of life. Or it could burnt, glazed and slipping.

RAB
 
Tnx a lot! Any idea maybe about a part in the footwell that causes my steering wheel to make knocking sound on very rough roads? :)

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