Lupo 3l -need help

In the video, he removes the Oem ones and installs black shocks which look similar to the Bilsteins... That and the suggestion by the dealer today led me to believe it can be done. On A2 the problem were the springs that were a mismatch in the conversion, so i ordered the springs as well... Here is A2 thread...
https://a2-freun.de/forum/forums/topic/19269-alternativfahrwerk-für-den-12/#comment-276898

The guy in the blue 3l video wants to say that one new oem shock costs 260e, and labor 80e, which is 340e. Healone did it for 80e and saved 260e in the process of replacing only one shock..... The one important thing he fails to mention is which bloddy shock brand and model he used :)
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Hey guys, after reading what Rab had to say, i decided against messing up with the factory set up, and cancelled my hefty order. I will replace the shock mounts and bearings and just inspect the shocks. I mean it's probably only the mounts that trully require changing, but i thought, what the hack, i will replace all the mounts, they are originals and cant be in good shape after 16 years... While i would probably benefit from the new shocks, it may be stupid to replace them if they are not leaked or cracked or damaged in any other way, even more so by doing mods to the factory setup. I hear some thudding on bad and potholed roads, so i suspect the mounts. If it turns out that front shocks are bad, ill buy originals... I have taken into acount a small extra weight, but i havent considered posssibly increased height, and how it would affect consumption and ride quality....

But, correct if wrong plz, but according to this, OEM front shocks are the same for both Lupo 3L and Audi A2 1.2Tdi.....
Part number: *6E0413031F

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Any truth in this, if not, can you find the oem part number for a2 1.2tdi front shock? Just curious....

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In the lower picture, the part no. is correct but the description is wrong. Etka doesn't list a part no. for an A2 1.2tdi, only an illustration that I can't find.

RAB
 
The mechanic inspected the old shocks and said they were very bad, almost gone, so I ordered 2 new original shocks. VW gave me a a 10% discount....
The other dealer still insists there is a cheap replacement, but i think they are all making a mistake. There is the same or similar part number replacement, but not for Lupos...

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I finally found the Etka part no. for the A2 1.2Tdi shock here:

http://www.oemepc.com/audi/part_sin.../411/subcategory/411000/part_id/272767/lang/e

The Lupo 3L shock absorber is here:

http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_singl...407/subcategory/407012/part_id/3705862/lang/e

They are the same! So at least in theory, the Bilstein shocks should fit a 3L; not sure why Bilstein are not aware of this! Whatever you buy, make sure you don't buy something you can't return and that they are not recommended for any other model; if they are, they are probably not suitable. Case in point:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/AUDI-A2-1-2-...2c5527&pid=100013&rk=3&rkt=12&sd=182524908083

Note that rear shocks ARE NOT the same.

RAB
 
Well thanks Rab for definite clarification. I kind of thought the A2 1.2tdi and Lupo 3L front shocks could be the same... But, if i took Bilstein shocks, i would need the new springs as well. So I thought, Ok, provided that I got the new springs as well, it would still be a lot cheaper... But what about the height of the car after the fronts are fitted? The car could sit higher than normal due to its lighter engine and front end, and look and handle like crap possibly? I wasnt willing to risk that.. So i ordered the original ones, as expensive as they are.... They should arrive by the end of next week...

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Why would you need new springs, if the originals are OK? The shocks should be a straight replacement.

RAB
 
But I ordered originals, so I wouldn't need new springs for sure. Interesting, rear original shocks are in perfect condition, after 225k km and 16 years...

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New shocks installed, and the difference is night and day. Awesome! Now, if you could help me with one more problem, which has been there on and off for a while, and is very annoying. It has to do with rear brake drums. When I apply the brakes, i hear the clicking as well as some rubbing. If i apply only the handbrake lightly, there is no clicking. BUT this doesnt happen all the time. It starts after say 20 minutes of driving, so i guess it has to do something with the increase in temperature.. I have had several mechanics take a look at the drums and they found everything Ok inside. I thought maybe the drums are warped, but if they were, wouldnt the clicking noise be there all the time? What I found strange is that my wheels do not spin freely when rotated by hand, which leads me to believe that maybe this has to do something with a bad wheel hub assembly. Then again, if the bearing was bad, wouldnt I hear humming and bad bearing noise all the time. My ride is very quiet.... Any ideas?


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You can easily test the hub by removing the drum. Are the six nylon pads between the shoes and the backplate all present? Because the brake drum material is a composite, there is not much shoe movement, so everything has to be precisely set up.

RAB
 
We may have found the problem. There are two coils springs inside, and the left one was making contact with the drum, there are signs of scraping, so we replaced it.... Hope it is solved. I have problem with the rear shock absorbers. I am trying to find replacement, I know there is, but I have failed with Bilstein BNE 6780. They would fit, but the shock when extended is approximately 1.5cm lower than the OEM shock! Any ideas about the replacement. I am confused. :) The OEM part number is 6E0513025B.... According to this, Bilstein should fit because 6E is discontinued and replaced by 6X, and the shorter Bilstein ahocks sypport 6X0513025B.... wtf?!

Also, some more problems. I hear a hissing kind of ssssss sound at idle emenating from the back of the engine bay, most likely turbo area, maybe the hydraylic components area. It sounds almost like a worn out belt or alternator pulley, but the cambelt service was done a month ago, and the noise is clearly not in the alternator area. I thought it was some tensioner or pulley but the problem remained after the service. It is not a rattle more like sssss broken by a notmal tdi rattle. Any ideas?

And one more thing, while trying to locate the above noise i saw that VNT actuator is pretty hard to move by hand. I hooked up vag com and it showed some boost error that is not intermittent?! But there are no limp modes and the car is very nippy to drive... No hissing under acceleration...
There is one intermittent error related to gearbox. Code is 00511. No issues with the gearbox. Lots of questions sorry :)
 
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