One more AUDI A2 1.2TDI problem

I could post a video that would be identical to yours!

RAB
 
Yep, but the mount is clearly gone, and needs to be replaced. The car is rattling considerably at idle and when going from 2 to 1 gear. I know this is not a V6, yet it shouldnt shake like a tractor. And when i turn on climate control, then i need a couple of minutes after i leave the car to stop shaking myself :) I have googled out the exacly same thread where you suggested checking the compression, ballancer shaft and such. I have checked the compression and its superb. I've ordered a used mount for 40e. There is a clear difference when compared to mine...

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Can someone tell me which measuring blocks/fields I need to watch to see the value of the two Pots on the gangsteller, Pots G239 and G240?? RAB posted a link to another site I used once before to look this up, but that other site has now gone. An exhaustive list of all the measuring blocks, or where to look them up would be ideal. That will help me with a new problem: I bought a bargain price low mileage Lupo 3L knowing that it kept cutting out and had had "everything" replaced. Swapping a known good pump and clutch slave cylinder didn't stop random gearbox related cut outs. However, I noticed the 3rd party rebuilt gangsteller uses more pressure from the pump, the pump running a lot more than it should, non stop, when shifting into/out of neutral. I am swapping in my known good gangsteller from my 3L with a gearbox bearing issue. Basic adaptation is stopping with an RTFM 12 error, and I suspect the potentiometers...
 
Have you made the "adjustment"? You should be able to find the values on the German site.

RAB
 
Yes made the adjustment. Also changed both potentiometers to the ones from the gangsteller that I was driving round with on this car when the intermittent fault was there, basic setting again then made adjustment. there is no change, RTFM 12 after basic setting. Fault codes only 00263 Transmission 20-00 Malfunction in basic setting.

Will try a different gearbox computer, although that has never changed/fixed a problem for me so far on a 3L.

By German site, I guess you mean the A2OC Deutschland... Have just signed up and will take a look. Thx!
 
What is the purpose of "searching" in the basic setting??? I have given up on that 3L above for now, and am attempting a basic setting on one of the others, a black 3L that snapped the clutch release arm a while back. That is back together with a new arm and clutch actuator (to be safe). This black car goes through the basic setting, past kickdown, N, then Start Mot, then waits at "searching" for the motor to be started. I start the motor and let it run for 30 secs or more, but searching never goes. So adaptation never finishes. The car does now engage clutch and drive forwards, but won't engage reverse. It will only start in neutral (not stop position). Both reversing light and brake lights work. Any insight on the searching bit??? My googling found this http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=288745 but manually pulling/pushing the clutch release arm and wiggling the clutch actuator did nothing.
 
"Searching" refers to the bite point of the clutch. Did you investigate the reason for the clutch release arm damage? This does suggest a problem with the clutch guide sleeve, a cheap component to buy but requiring a lot of work (or money) to change. Is the clutch actuator cable always taut?

A faulty reversing switch will prevent reverse from being engaged. Remove the reversing switch plug and check for oil in the switch and change the switch if oil is present. The switch is below the oil level so make sure that you can remove the plug on the front face of the gearbox to top up the oil. Also check that the gear actuator is correctly connected to the gear change rod; there is a depression in the rod for the pointed end of the screw. Also check actuator ball joints for wear. Is the clutch actuator new or second-hand?

RAB
 
Thanks for the info on "searching". Makes sense. I will switch the clutch actuator as a next step. I replaced the metal clutch release arm. The old sleeve looked perfectly OK, and I replaced the release arm and sleeve as I had ordered both new (required complete gearbox removal). Took me about a day and a half. After refitting the gearbox and arm, the car drove forward, and the clutch was biting nicely. Yes, it was a used clutch actuator I bought, so that could actually be the issue with "searching". I had assumed that a "control error" had caused too much hydraulic force to be put on the release arm, snapping it. Suspecting the potentiometer in the actuator, I replaced the actuator. The reversing light works OK. It comes on during basic setting. However, the reversing switch did drip oil very slightly between the metal body of the reversing switch and the insulator. I degreased it and put epoxy in the joint on the switch which stopped the leak! The slightest trace of an oil leak is an MOT fail here. Because this car needs some other work and is not taxed it is a background project so I won't know immediately.

The 3L I was driving round in still has the problem with the basic setting stopping at RTFM with 12. I think I need to learn what is in message blocks 15 to 18.
"Check the corresponding Potentiometers in Measuring Value Blocks (MVB) 015 to 018" Sounds like good advice.
 
Oil in the reversing switch will make it unreliable; nothing to do with MOT's. Clutch actuators should be regarded as consumable items because of the potentiometer; the potentiometer can be replaced with a Hall effect sensor. Never buy a second hand one!

RAB
 
Agreed about reversing switch! Also, is it "normal" to have the clutch actuator "hunting" slightly, ie "pulsating in short interval of movement" as another owner puts it. The car I am fixing does that, but so does the hard working daily driver!

Meanwhile am looking for a detailed description of MVB 015 to 018.
 
So I am back to fixing the silver 3L with an intermittent gearbox issues that seemed, from the pump running behaviour, like the gangsteller was causing the pump to run due to using excessive amounts of pressure for each shift. I changed the gangsteller robot, to one from a known working 3L, and now I get stuck at RTFM 12 during adaptation (not skipping doing an adjustment)... I see the reversing light come on, the reversing switch has not been messed with. I have changed potentiometers to the set from the problematic gangsteller, still RTFM 12. I can see the potentiometer values in MVB 15 fields 3 and 4, they both vary between 1.x and 4 volts or so, and the voltages reported are not bouncing up and down, but stable. All I can think is that I have some kind of other electrical connector issue. Has anyone any ideas? Pump behavior sounds more normal now during adaptation but we stick at RTFM 12, not getting to the kickdown part...
 
Before you removed the connectors from the gear actuator, did you mark them? There are two types of connector, so four different combinations; only one is correct.

RAB
 
RAB, Spot ON. The lower two connections were swapped. The plug with the purple wire should have been "lowest" as fitted to the car, the one you see from under the wheel arch looking towards the clutch actuator. Corrected them and it went straight through the basic setting no problem! So that one issues was my own making.
 
The gear actuator has it's own loom, connected above the gearbox. Always best to keep the actuator and the loom together.

RAB
 
The gearbox is still behaving now that I connected the plugs on the gangsteller/shifter correctly and did a basic adjustment. 3 days driving in London, plus the round trip from Zurich, ferry etc! However, sometimes, only sometimes, it fails to start in the STOP position. When this happens, it always starts if I move the lever to N. During such an episode, the green foot brake light on the speedo goes out as I press the brake. Also, if I go to measuring blocks 22, the shift lever positions are all correctly detected. There were no gearbox fault codes recorded over the whole trip and since.

I checked the engine fault codes, there was a "17965 - charge pressure control, positive deviation. " which I cleared. This is due to the variable geometry turbo vanes being stuck. The previous owner had a new turbo core fitted but they obviously didn't clean up/check the vanes properly. This fault code only shows up after a motorway run.

Would love to find this fault before anything else shows up as multiple faults can be difficult to diagnose! Am still using the car daily and getting good fuel consumption figures.
 
I know that the lupo 3l with same engine and gearbox wont start in Stop position if the clutch is worn a lot. that could be the problem, but i'm not an expert, just a guess. Hope it helps
 
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