The S H E car

If that bearing hadnt been seized to the shaft the fan could probably have done service a few more years I guess after oiling the bearing and cleaning the commutator area from carbon deposits.
But now it going in the bin.
 
Joga said:
Today I took a closer look at the replaced fan.
It was possible to turn the fan with some effort, but it was almost seized.
After releasing the four rubber fixings which holds the motor to the fan housing the motor could be moved at bit to give access to the connector and release it from the housing enabling the full removal of the motor from the housing.
Sorry, no photos from that.


This fan i most likely the original one from 2001 and appr 250 000km.
The commutator was rather worn.
View attachment 91012
Click to expand...
Hi Joga,
I don’t know if your aware that you can clean the brush running surface with emery cloth and then clean out the commutator slots with a junior hacksaw blade to very good effect.
Hope that helps
Keith

Sorry just seen the last post!!
 
Today was inspection (MOT) day for SHE. I did a quick preinspection myself and found one broken rear spring and a possibly too weak handbrake brake force but that was it.
I ordered springs and brake parts but didnt get them before the inspection.
Result: one comment on broken spring (just for my knowledge, not required to repair), and one defect track rod end.
Hmm, missed that one.. 🙂.

While waiting for the track rod end I attacked the springs this evening.
_20220519_194649.JPG


Found that BOTH were broken.

Now with new Lesjöfors 4204247 springs.
_20220519_194531.JPG
 
Coming back to that track rod end (or is it more comingly called tie rod end?), I had it removed yesterday as I my new one would arrive today. It did.
But it is not the same style as the old one 😪.
Sigh.
This is about the right side of the car, as per this picture.
_20220523_175336.JPG

But, look at this:


_20220523_175322.JPG
 
The mysterious thing, for me at least, is that by part number it should be the correct part. And the new end is even stamped with the same number as on the box, so I guess I can rule out a simple "wrong part in the box mistake".
Or has SHE had a left end on the right side up to now?
How does your right side end look like? 🙂
 
Catnip64 said:
Compare it with the LHS, the correct one should be a mirror image.
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Thanks, I took a quick look and yes the LHS is the same type as my new end. So unless SHE has had wrong ends on both sides, it seems to be something wrong with Lemförder part database or parts marking.
 
The track rod end story has now come to a real end.
The first end was the wrong part, admitted by the supplier.
While waiting for him to deal with this I ordered a febi part instead.
This one was the correct one for right side.
_20220610_224458.JPG
 
Yesterday I finally got around dealing with the engine temperature sensor.
For some months now the gauge had been giving strange and unrealistic readings (but via vcds I could see that the engine ECU had good readings).
So time for a new sensor.
It was my first time, but it was not too difficult although access is limited.
I decided to reuse the clip and the o-ring as the ones supplied with the febi sensor was not impressing.
The new o-ring felt more stiff, and the clip was a 0.1mm thinner so it was rejected.
Old sensor, and the rejected details below.
New sensor is working fine anyway.

_20220610_224143.JPG
 
Yesterday when SHE +she was approaching me I noticed a whirring/grinding sound from the front.
Today I had the time to investigate and my conclusion after having removed the auxilliary belt and rotating the tensioner and alternator manually that an alternator bearing has reached end of life.
Never an empty list that is. 😁
 
Joga said:
Yesterday when SHE +she was approaching me I noticed a whirring/grinding sound from the front.
Today I had the time to investigate and my conclusion after having removed the auxilliary belt and rotating the tensioner and alternator manually that an alternator bearing has reached end of life.
Never an empty list that is. 😁
Click to expand...
Yup, high maintenance lots of little things. How long has that bearing lasted?
 
Joga said:
Yesterday I finally got around dealing with the engine temperature sensor.
For some months now the gauge had been giving strange and unrealistic readings (but via vcds I could see that the engine ECU had good readings).
So time for a new sensor.
It was my first time, but it was not too difficult although access is limited.
I decided to reuse the clip and the o-ring as the ones supplied with the febi sensor was not impressing.
The new o-ring felt more stiff, and the clip was a 0.1mm thinner so it was rejected.
Old sensor, and the rejected details below.
New sensor is working fine anyway.

View attachment 95446
Click to expand...
Hi Joga, I've been having the same issue and when I had a look at the G62 sensor, the manual doesn't mention the 2 coolant pipes blocking complete access, as the release tab in under of the bottom of the whole thing. Seems the only way changing it, is to first disconnect both hoses somehow, as Audi designed coolant change using pumps, sure it's gonna make a mess whichever pipe being disconnected, then have access to temp sensor. Any tips or tricks? Sounds like you managed to find and easier way. Thanks.
 
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Sylvester said:
Hi Joga, I've been having the same issue and when I had a look at the G62 sensor, the manual doesn't mention the 2 coolant pipes blocking complete access, as the release tab in under of the bottom whole thing. Seems the only way changing it, is to first disconnect both hoses somehow, as Audi designed coolant change using pumps, sure it's gonna make a mess whichever pipe being disconnected, then have access to temp sensor. Any tips or tricks? Sounds like you managed to find and easier way. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Hi Sylvester, yes the access is not the best. I tried to operate the electrical connector release tab first but did not succeed.
I then pulled the sensor mounting clip and removed the sensor (here I lost more than one liter of coolant which I all managed to collect in a big pan under the car) turned it over and then had good access for separating it from the connector.
Still a bit fiddly but no real problem.
 
Funny; I am in the same situation. Ordered a 100NOK new spinner for the tensioner and a 1100NOK refurbished 140A alternator from AS-PL (as hard to figure out where the noise is coming from and noise is there only for a few seconds when cold)
 
Joga said:
Hi Sylvester, yes the access is not the best. I tried to operate the electrical connector release tab first but did not succeed.
I then pulled the sensor mounting clip and removed the sensor (here I lost more than one liter of coolant which I all managed to collect in a big pan under the car) turned it over and then had good access for separating it from the connector.
Still a bit fiddly but no real problem.
Click to expand...
That's a good tip, thanks!
Is the coolant flow stops around 1L or you'd plugged it with something?
 
Sylvester said:
That's a good tip, thanks!
Is the coolant flow stops around 1L or you'd plugged it with something?
Click to expand...
Judging fom the volume of coolant I had to refill with I would say it was between 1L and 2L when, as I did, just leaving it flowing out of the "sensor hole" until it stopped by itself.
 
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