Today I.....

[bretti_kivi]

.. spent six hours on a ramp. Tried to take the starter out - failed.
Found oil on the throttle body (!!); checked the breather hoses and AGR and they're fine. Replaced the throttle body gasket. Oil and filter change completed and checked out the rear brakes. Really must get new shoes and mechs (€80 or so all in for both sides is a bargain, IMO). Back there in two weeks. Plan right now:
- sort the leak out from the sunroof; need to take the arch liner out for that. We'll drill holes to anchor the undertray properly at the same time.
- replace the rear brakes, probably replace fluid at the same time
- replace the rear bump stops and the bottom bolts for the ARB with something from Stainless.

Week after taht:
- front ARB replacement
- wishbone rear rubber replacement

That should be enough for the time being. Let's see how far I get with other stuff in the mean time....

- Bret

 

[Gonzo]

......put the winter tyres on. The Daily Express doom-laden weather forecasts got to me.

I also replaced the osf dipped bulb as it failed on the motorway the other night. Where I discovered that I couldn't get the rear plastic cover off without removing the whole unit. And I was not in possession of a torx bit at the time.

 

[dan_b]

Today I...
Swore at my car for the amount of rattles it's currently got. Shut the H*ll up it sounds like a bag of bolts.

 

[Birchall]

......put the winter tyres on. The Daily Express doom-laden weather forecasts got to me.

I also replaced the osf dipped bulb as it failed on the motorway the other night. Where I discovered that I couldn't get the rear plastic cover off without removing the whole unit. And I was not in possession of a torx bit at the time.

you should definitely be able to get it off without removing the headlamp unit. But i cant say the same for getting it back on again. It is possible but very frustrating, very difficult to line it up but as i say, possible. But the bulb is so much easier to replace with the headlamp unit removed.

Steve B

 

[oneflewover]

TDI Engine thermostat today. Not going above 60degrees whilst stood. £40 for seal bolt and stat from Audi (ouch). Can't test no insurance on diesel.

 

[Birchall]

TDI Engine thermostat today. Not going above 60degrees whilst stood. £40 for seal bolt and stat from Audi (ouch). Can't test no insurance on diesel.

The tdi wont necessarily warm up above 60 when standing with the engine running, it might not need anything doing

the cooling system (inc the fan) are very efficient and unless you are putting any load on the engine it often doesn't get to 90 from cold.

Do you have any other symptoms?

Steve B

 

[Sootywg]

Today I replaced the brake light switch after the 'flashing glowplug light' came on.

As ever this forum gave me the information I needed to confirm the diagnosis of the possible causes of the flashing glow plug light.
First check was to identify that the brake lights were not coming on (they weren't) It is a strange indication of the fault but all the relevant threads gave me confidence to just replace the switch.

Local VAG dealership said the switch was a back order item only (they had two on the shelves for other customers!) £20+
So resorted to a none oem switch from Eurospares £10 as I wanted to get it back on the road asap.

Fitting was as described on the threads I read and all is now well.

Took the old switch apart and found mild errosion of one of the contacts, a little light burnish with fine emery and the switch functions correctly again, so will keep it to hand as a spare in case the replacement fails!

Even my wife was impressed by such a quick resolution to what could have been seen as a potentially expensive fault seeing as the owners handbook simply says 'a flashing coil light requires immediate engine service by a garage'.

The forum yet again proves to be a time and money saving organisation.

Thank you everone involved

Geoff

 

[sco]

Today I...
Swore at my car for the amount of rattles it's currently got. Shut the H*ll up it sounds like a bag of bolts.

Yeah I've tried and failed to locate my annoying rattle - going to have another go this w/e!

 

[oneflewover]

The tdi wont necessarily warm up above 60 when standing with the engine running, it might not need anything doing

the cooling system (inc the fan) are very efficient and unless you are putting any load on the engine it often doesn't get to 90 from cold.

Do you have any other symptoms?

Steve B

Thanks Steve,

Got my whole post completely wrong. It will go up to 90 whilst stood and the fan will come in at 90, then back to 89 etc...

Whilst on a run will not go above 60 or 62 with AC off.

 

[Birchall]

Thanks Steve,

Got my whole post completely wrong. It will go up to 90 whilst stood and the fan will come in at 90, then back to 89 etc...

Whilst on a run will not go above 60 or 62 with AC off.

Thanks for the clarification.

That is more like the symptoms of a failing thermostat.

Steve B

 

[murdo]

Today I...
Swore at my car for the amount of rattles it's currently got. Shut the H*ll up it sounds like a bag of bolts.

Sorry - no 'today I' from me but I'm intrigued why you've got so many rattles. Other than the common bonnet catch rattle which has been addressed our car is completely solid. They're really well screwed together so what's the suspected source of the irritation Dan?

 

[sco]

'Bonnet catch rattle' - where does one look for that one - is it up close to the A pillars?

Simon.

 

[Birchall]

'Bonnet catch rattle' - where does one look for that one - is it up close to the A pillars?

Simon.

just tap the back corners of the bonnet with the side of your fist. If there is play in the catches you will get a knocking noise when you tap it.

It is one that can be responsible for what appears to be a suspension knock, or worse still it can sound like it is INSIDE the car, from the dash.


Steve B

 

[JIGSAW]

Thanks Steve,

Got my whole post completely wrong. It will go up to 90 whilst stood and the fan will come in at 90, then back to 89 etc...

Whilst on a run will not go above 60 or 62 with AC off.

Having, Had simular problems myself where after replacing the thermostat and temp sender due to no heat inside the car, air locks were my biggest problem as seemed like the heater matrix is blocked or airlocked , was a nightmear to get all the air out of the system and several days of driving and checking as the temp gauge either wouldnt budge from 60 or if it did go up to 70 or 80 as soon as i put the heater on it went straight back down to 60,
I did finally find one bleed screw on the driverside inner wing on the webasko unit, on the back water pipe next to the suspention leg top, i had to undo the 3 main bolts holding the webasko unit to be able to get at the bleed nipple and undo as tucked right down the side and no real access and did not want to brake the tiny plastic wheel of the bleed nipple, and sure enough full of air but after bleeding while the engine was running i finally removed all the air and eventually had warm air blowing from the heater and temp rises steadly and holds at 90, im still debating about removing the heater matrix and hooking up my presure washer to one of the inlets and making sure its clear before refitting the dash as still not 100% happy with the heat output as no where near as roasty as my petrols heater on full wack..

Gary

 

[oneflewover]

Having, Had simular problems myself where after replacing the thermostat and temp sender due to no heat inside the car, air locks were my biggest problem as seemed like the heater matrix is blocked or airlocked , was a nightmear to get all the air out of the system and several days of driving and checking as the temp gauge either wouldnt budge from 60 or if it did go up to 70 or 80 as soon as i put the heater on it went straight back down to 60,
I did finally find one bleed screw on the driverside inner wing on the webasko unit, on the back water pipe next to the suspention leg top, i had to undo the 3 main bolts holding the webasko unit to be able to get at the bleed nipple and undo as tucked right down the side and no real access and did not want to brake the tiny plastic wheel of the bleed nipple, and sure enough full of air but after bleeding while the engine was running i finally removed all the air and eventually had warm air blowing from the heater and temp rises steadly and holds at 90, im still debating about removing the heater matrix and hooking up my presure washer to one of the inlets and making sure its clear before refitting the dash as still not 100% happy with the heat output as no where near as roasty as my petrols heater on full wack..

Gary

Goodness, mine has a webasto and had a full coolant drain lately. I've got my fingers crossed.

 

[JIGSAW]

Goodness, mine has a webasto and had a full coolant drain lately. I've got my fingers crossed.

I did read many posts on the subject and supposedly the A2's ment to self bleed , but my A2 wont having any of that and found draining the air via that bleed nipple cured it for me, i think its because its the highest point the water gets to in the cooling system,

Basically removed the 3 10mm bolts with large washers holding the webasto to the inner wing, keeping it attached to the alloy support frame, after its all free you can move it up and forward to give easy access, youl see the radiator pipe on the back, theres a round knurled black plastic thingy sticking out the side of the pipe, this is the bleed nipple, go easy on it undoing and tightening as only plastic, i undid it until water started leaking then done it hand tight, squished all the radiator pipes i could get my hands on to force any trapped air arround the system and undid it again and sure enough more air came out , i did this for about 10 mins with the engine running and the top up cap off and just kept bleeding the air out and topping up as needed until no more air came out. put the cap back on and went for a drive and for the first time i had heat blowing inside the car and the temp gauge steadily rised to 90 and even with fan on full blast it stays put now with nice warm but not roasty hot as of yet

Regards Gary

Ive added a pic i found for location as not very clear being black on black

 

[6stings]

Today I tried to pull the damaged bolt out, but there was no luck. What I find out was that one more bolt was damaged. Now the wheel is hanging on 3 good and 1 loose, the 5th bolt place is empty. Looks like the new rear brake discs will be ordered...

 

[JIGSAW]

Today I tried to pull the damaged bolt out, but there was no luck. What I find out was that one more bolt was damaged. Now the wheel is hanging on 3 good and 1 loose, the 5th bolt place is empty. Looks like the new rear brake discs will be ordered...

I think youl need the rear stub axle not the disc



Regards Gary

 

[Birchall]

Today I tried to pull the damaged bolt out, but there was no luck. What I find out was that one more bolt was damaged. Now the wheel is hanging on 3 good and 1 loose, the 5th bolt place is empty. Looks like the new rear brake discs will be ordered...

You can buy this for less than £30 and it includes a new wheel bearing too

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381365785106?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I have bought a pair for my rear axle conversion.

Steve B

 

[6stings]

Thanks guys!
I'm ordering the right parts then!
Any idea how to pull out the bolt with damaged threads in the middle?
No sure if I can't drive to the nearest service with the rear wheel hanging on 3 bots...

Man, that was a good price! £75 vs £218 at AMB's site! Thanks again, Steve!

I believe the guy who fitted the new summer tires for me tightened all bolts too much and damaged the threads, some of them were so tight, I had to jump on the wrench to screw them off.