Today I.....
- Thread starter sco
- Start date
.......was glad I fitted the winter tyres yesterday. Halfway piccie on a journey from Brentwood to Bath.
That's a handy little trick to dodge the average speed cameras lol
dan_b
A2OC Donor
Well, currently I have a rattle that sounds like it's coming from the exhaust which buzzes at around 1300rpm when you're pulling away. Then I've got what I think is the bonnet vibration which comes in at about 1500RPM - although I've tried various remedies recommended none has made any difference. That one is quite profoundly intrusive. Then there's a new intermittent rattle which sounds like it's coming from the "Grab bar" on the dash - if I hold onto that it stops. Then there's a really irritating buzz that comes from the near-side B pillar, but only on certain types of road surface at certain speeds - but it is always set off when driving on the eastbound M4 just after the M25 junction. And the dash squeaks around the ashtray when the car is cold...
ARGH. Make it STOP
ARGH. Make it STOP
Gonzo
A2OC Donor
Somehow, I couldn't get the same effect at the back!
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sounds like youl also need to buy some new wheel bolts too..
if you jack the car up and place on a axle stand first , then remove all the wheel nuts that will undo.
next get someone to pull the wheel outwards evenly and keep the presure on, pulling outwards while u try and undo the damaged bolt which may help it find the odd thread and come out completly,, but dont force the bolt out using the wheel as a lever as you may damage the bolt seat/face in the alloy wheel, just even presure and keep undoing the faulty bolt which may take a little while but should do the trick .
goodluck Gary
ARGH. Make it STOP
Had many rattles , squeaks and creaks myself but after replacing the shocks they almost all vanished but found like you said temperature played a big part on what rattles , squeaks you could hear...
I can see everyone lining up at poundland now with baskets full of cans of fake snow ...laughing out loud
Today I showed my cupholder some love from Costa after picking my car up from A2 cars, a new centre cubby hole in place now amongst other jobs, heated seats and lumbar now working in time for winter! very pleased to get it back and 1st class service from A2 cars as per usual!!
Cheers Jeff
Cheers Jeff
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Alan_uk
A2OC Donor
Hi
Couple of questions if I may:
1. Why photo 3? I thought all A2s had the cubby hole in front of the gear stick. Maybe there's something of note I'm missing.
2. Is there a cubby hole with a lid behind the rear cup holders? - I can make out a square of some sort.
3. Do your two A2s vie for attention and demand equal goodies
cheers
Couple of questions if I may:
1. Why photo 3? I thought all A2s had the cubby hole in front of the gear stick. Maybe there's something of note I'm missing.
2. Is there a cubby hole with a lid behind the rear cup holders? - I can make out a square of some sort.
3. Do your two A2s vie for attention and demand equal goodies
cheers
Hi
Couple of questions if I may:
1. Why photo 3? I thought all A2s had the cubby hole in front of the gear stick. Maybe there's something of note I'm missing.
2. Is there a cubby hole with a lid behind the rear cup holders? - I can make out a square of some sort.
3. Do your two A2s vie for attention and demand equal goodies
cheers
Hi Alan,
Haha, all questions welcomed!
Sorry photo 3 was more of a case of getting carried away with the phones camera, the cubby hole (new one) is under the handbrake which a lot of owners have and come as standard with the double din dash, but had a chance to replace with a new one whilst Tony had the seats and central tunnel out!
There is a sliding 2 part cover behind the main cup area if that's what you were referring to but in all nothing special that nobody else has, just saw the sign board in the services and thought I'd share a moment on a rare sunny day!
And yes equal goodies for both I'm afraid, expensive, but worth it imo!
Cheers Jeff
6stings
A2OC Donor
Thanks Gary!
I tried that yesterday, the bolt didn't want to bite. I'll try to push it harder today. Even if I have to sacrifice one rim, no big deal, I have 12 of the same kind.
The bolts are not a problem either, I have plenty of new and used.
All I need is less cold outside
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
That is if you have managed to find / buy the rear cupholder. It is an optional extra (a fantastic one that looks like it should have been fitted to all A2s) but if there is one in your A2 already, you are very lucky.
I class them as one of the top optional accessories available for the A2.
Steve B
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Very true Steve! Couldn't do without this option, unfortunately I paid a premium for this one, so less said the better lol
Cheers Jeff
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
If anyone is interested in buying a rear cup-holder it is worth checking with Audi first (Stoke Audi for example).
There are some still in stock. The colours will be limited, but the price from Audi is often less than the price being asked for secondhand.
There are a couple of parts missing from the fitting bits, but the unit is still stable enough without these. They are no longer available from anywhere, so if you buy a secondhand one always ask for all of the fitting parts including the to small roundish parts that are used when mounting the rear plastic mount.
Steve B
There are some still in stock. The colours will be limited, but the price from Audi is often less than the price being asked for secondhand.
There are a couple of parts missing from the fitting bits, but the unit is still stable enough without these. They are no longer available from anywhere, so if you buy a secondhand one always ask for all of the fitting parts including the to small roundish parts that are used when mounting the rear plastic mount.
Steve B
sco
A2OC Donor
OK can you drill the head out then - I know they are high tensile bolts but with a decent drill bit should be possible and at least the bolts heads have a pilot hole.
What happened originally - was it over-torqued which stripped the thread?
It's pretty cold over here today but I imagine Norway is colder!
Simon.
What happened originally - was it over-torqued which stripped the thread?
It's pretty cold over here today but I imagine Norway is colder!
Simon.
Birchall
Dick Chown Award 2016
Hi,
This is a pretty stupid suggestion but since you are stuck?
If the centre bore hole in the wheels big enough to get at the wheel bearing centre cap? It would have been great if you were able to remove that and undo the nut that holds the whole assembly onto the hub?
Clutching at straws here!
Steve B
This is a pretty stupid suggestion but since you are stuck?
If the centre bore hole in the wheels big enough to get at the wheel bearing centre cap? It would have been great if you were able to remove that and undo the nut that holds the whole assembly onto the hub?
Clutching at straws here!
Steve B
I dont think that would work as the disc and caliper would all jam up with the backing plate ect and do more damage..
you could go the drilling method as suggested but would take some time, you could stop the bolt from turning by using a half inch socket to hold the stud and pass the drill through the square hole of the socket but even that would be a mission.
If youv got some one with oxy acetylin cutting gear that would be the fastest way forward as youv got spare wheels or then theres just brute force using decent leverbars through the wheel spokes to apply maximum force while undoing the stud, from memory the threads only just stick out the back of the stud by a few milimeters so i imagine its just needing more leverage while undoing will do the trick even though it will trash your alloy wheel.
Ive got a 10 ton body kit , which has a wedge attachment which would do this, so if you know a pannel beater id imagine they would also have one of these if you could borrow such a tool .. as you could just wedge it in the other side and force the wheel off with hydralic presure as the wedge attachment opens up..
you could go the drilling method as suggested but would take some time, you could stop the bolt from turning by using a half inch socket to hold the stud and pass the drill through the square hole of the socket but even that would be a mission.
If youv got some one with oxy acetylin cutting gear that would be the fastest way forward as youv got spare wheels or then theres just brute force using decent leverbars through the wheel spokes to apply maximum force while undoing the stud, from memory the threads only just stick out the back of the stud by a few milimeters so i imagine its just needing more leverage while undoing will do the trick even though it will trash your alloy wheel.
Ive got a 10 ton body kit , which has a wedge attachment which would do this, so if you know a pannel beater id imagine they would also have one of these if you could borrow such a tool .. as you could just wedge it in the other side and force the wheel off with hydralic presure as the wedge attachment opens up..