Today I.....

They are after the cleaning :). Sadly plastics are a little scratched which really bothers my OCD. But I will live with it, since these are really hard to get :).
This one is the worst, others are better.
Scratch.jpg
 
dj_efk said:
How did that happen Tom?
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Evening David,

By chance to be honest, I was alerted about this one and was speaking to the seller within 4 minutes of it becoming available. A deal was struck over the phone and I was there soon as the seller returned home from work as it was only 20 minutes away.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
sco said:
A thread like this is popular on the TT forum I frequent so wondered if it would gain momentum here - basically post anything A2 related from admiring the curves, to giving it a wash to fixing a problem.

Today I give my A2 it's first service in my ownership; Oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter done and just fuel filter to go. Found a few 'bodges' along the way - vacuum pipe disconnected just before the MAF, scuttle drain pipe pinched by the air intake pipe (which way should it run?) and missing fasteners from the under-tray up into the wheel arch.

Simon.
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Today I.....
Give Piper (the A2), its First wash since buying Her on Sat. After She was nicely Cleaned I applied Some Gold Audi Rings to the rear quarter panels, looks pretty neat. Also ordered some more bits and pieces, we got a slight laquer peel on front left wing, so got some Carbon fiber sheeting to style a new design and cover up the dodgey laquer, will post pics when done.
 

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Birchall said:
Yes, that is common, but most people (including me) are too frightened to try to release the rear section.

I just gave mine a tap as the front section just started to try and lift it. You need to lubricate the seal with the right type of grease (and just a bit of it) or it will stick again.

Even after mine was released it used to make a "gritty" noise when it opened, that was the seals sticking again, all lubed up now and working fine and silent (but the genuine grease from a dealer is not cheap!)

Steve B
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Hi, the previous owner of my A2 said the roof did not work, but me being me had to try, it opened, not so smoothly all the, I cleaned and regressed the slide rails, but then encountered a problem when it slid all the way forward the motor would not pop the window back home, I freaked out a bit but after fidgeting around it popped back in.

Which grease should I use on the rails and how much is it please? As I used wd40 this time round.
 
RowdyAudiPiper said:
Hi, the previous owner of my A2 said the roof did not work, but me being me had to try, it opened, not so smoothly all the, I cleaned and regressed the slide rails, but then encountered a problem when it slid all the way forward the motor would not pop the window back home, I freaked out a bit but after fidgeting around it popped back in.

Which grease should I use on the rails and how much is it please? As I used wd40 this time round.
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Evening,

This thread should assist to answer you’re question.

The lithium grease you’re after is here on eBay, available elsewhere also.

Using WD40 will clean away the old lubricant but will not assist its smooth operation for any length of time. Recommend you wipe away as much of the old grease as possible and reapply with the fresh product soonest.

Should you continue to encounter problems Ian @Kleynie will be able to assist to fully restore your OSS.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
2work said:
Evening,

This thread should assist to answer you’re question.

The lithium grease you’re after is here on eBay, available elsewhere also.

Using WD40 will clean away the old lubricant but will not assist its smooth operation for any length of time. Recommend you wipe away as much of the old grease as possible and reapply with the fresh product soonest.

Should you continue to encounter problems Ian @Kleynie will be able to assist to fully restore your OSS.

Kind regards,

Tom
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Thank You very much.
 
RowdyAudiPiper said:
Thank You very much.
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Morning,

No problem at all and welcome to the club where you’ll find plenty of enthusiasts available who will endeavour provide sound advice and to answer your questions.

More questions the better to be honest as we do thrive oh helping others but please do check if your answer is already contained within our pages by using the search function, for searches with words with 3 or less letters then it’s best to use your an internet search ensuring it has had A2OC within it.

I hope you enjoy your journey with us and do keep us busy with questions. Welcome again.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Personal choice here so you make up your own mind but I no longer use lithium grease for the oss
Instead I use molybdenum disulphide grease commonly called Molly grease
It is using in CV joints etc
The reasoning is that it is ideal for very high pressure loading and should the grease substrate dry out it will leave behind the molybdenum particles
This is how dry film lubricant work

Again this is my personal choice, all I can add is that my oss moves judder free and as for the last 3 plus years since I refurbished it
One other top tip, open and close the oss on a regular basis to keep the lubrication fluid and only apply sparingly where is is needed. Less is more comes to mind, as the lubricant will attract dust and grit which makes a very good paste similar to valve grinding paste
I apply liberally push the lubricant into the areas needed then remove excess with paper towel which you will need a lot of as a little Molly grease goes a long way
I bought a ½ litre tub brand comma from memory you remove the lid and inside there is a false lid with a ½” hole in the middle so you push the false lid down and Molly grease is extruded upwards through the hole in the false lid
I then use this to fill a 1” diameter syringe with a big bore blind needle on the end
Once full this is used to apply the Molly grease exactly where is is needed and keeps the clean up to a minimum

Cheers. Paul


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Paul is correct, we’ve been using CV joint grease for a couple of years now on all repairs, it also has the advantage of being black in colour.

Drop us a PM is you need any help.
 
This afternoon I made a start on removing the rear axle beam as the weather was bearable. ?.

Anyhow, the question is. Is it better to remove the one bolt at each side to drop it out Or the Three at each side holding the casting to the frame underside?

Is one more difficult to do than the other in terms of seized bolts with it being dissimilar metals?

All have been left with a good dose of Plus gas.
 

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I would first put the car on Jack stands and then detach all breaklines and ancillaries. Before unbolting any rearbeam bolts. I figure it would be easier to unbolt the three bolts to chassis instead of the central bolt on each side. As they have to unbolted anyway. What are you planning to do with the rearbeam?
 
Stan H said:
This afternoon I made a start on removing the rear axle beam as the weather was bearable. ?.

Anyhow, the question is. Is it better to remove the one bolt at each side to drop it out Or the Three at each side holding the casting to the frame underside?

Is one more difficult to do than the other in terms of seized bolts with it being dissimilar metals?

All have been left with a good dose of Plus gas.
Click to expand...
I did this a short while ago .
Get the car firmly on axle stands!
I removed the wheels, the rear springs using spring compressors if necessary, and the rear shocks.
The ABS sensors were removed and the loom hung out of the way.The park brake cables were removed too.
Clamped the two brake flexi pipes in front of the axle and cut them downstream of the clamps
Removed the long bolts through the axle and lowered the axle away.
I left the axle locating plates alone as I did not want to get involved with rear axle alignment problems
The bushes, brake pipes were removed as well as the brake pipe mounting clips. The axle sent off for shot blasting and powder coating. Note the position of the bushes on removal! The new bushes need to orientated in the same way!
 
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Hey Stan is the idea to rebuild the bushes on the beam or is it something else ? I’ve got a squeak in the ‘rear suspension ‘ area . Not really looked but I’m guessing bushes ?


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A2Si said:
Hey Stan is the idea to rebuild the bushes on the beam or is it something else ? I’ve got a squeak in the ‘rear suspension ‘ area . Not really looked but I’m guessing bushes ?


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If you check out page 502 it shows the car earlier in the year as I noticed that the rear was lower than the front. I found that the springs are were more for lowering the car plus on further inspection the brakes were in a state so I decided to strip out all the front and rear suspension and brakes and make it right.
In reply to yourself, @DuncanA2 . @simufly I took the A2 off the road in August as the MOT was due and most of the suspension looks like it has been made from old pier legs. It's an 03 with 138K on it so my idea was to remove the beam to do whatever it needed. I have bought new springs and full brake and drums kit.
It's now up on the axle stands so it's a matter of disconnecting the hand brake cables & brake pipes (which also need to be renewed).
Re-bush the beam after removing and treating the corrosion.
Then move onto the front end once rebuilt and fit the MK1 TT seats.
 
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