Today I.....

cheechy said:
Or take your own Pepsi as I did at the weekend :p

So to relate to previous post...sump plug or oil drain? Whats the preference? Indeed is sucking the oil out of the a2 even practical? One of many thoughts I've had alongside other things like what will I have for my dinner and how clueless the government are :)
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I've seen an engine need replacing because someone used an oil drain, didn't notice the last few inches of pipe had snapped off and started the engine with the bits in the sump after refilling. I think it fouled somewhat and the engine was replaced. When stripped on a bench they found the pipe remains.

Moral - check the length of the pipe before sticking it in the sump.


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you normally get a new sump bolt with the washer on , either OEM or non genuine, as to size it would depend on engine and type ect
 
no idea cheechy , when ever i do a service i just replace the bolt as the washer is part of it and stays on the bolt oem , its only a few pound for the new bolt with washer
 
JIGSAW said:
no idea cheechy , when ever i do a service i just replace the bolt as the washer is part of it and stays on the bolt oem , its only a few pound for the new bolt with washer
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When I have failed to get a sump plug I have removed the washer (copper washer) and heated in in a blow lamp flame until fame turns green then allow the washer to cool in still air. This softens the washer and allows another use. Never had a weep from the sump plug in 35 years of car servicing. But I do agree a new copper washer or complete sump plug is much easier


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....picked up my freshly painted 1987 Vespa PX 200 E tins and they all fitted in the back of my A2 with rear seats removed. image.jpeg
 
67boris said:
....picked up my freshly painted 1987 Vespa PX 200 E tins and they all fitted in the back of my A2 with rear seats removed.View attachment 31293
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nice P2 there or will be id imagine, ran a few of these back in the day , along with lambrettas and 50 specials
Ive got a race tuned mallosi 210cc engine somewhere that i had in a 50 special frame , would be at home in your px200 although needs rebuilding as tore the casings apart from clutch mainshaft down to rear wheel output shaft , seems it did not like all my horses and the rd 350 power valve welded into the crank casings :)
 
Wheel fitting pin in steel

Went to take a wheel off the other day and found the thread on the plastic wheel fitting / alignment pin knackered - not me guv! So I wondered if there are steel pins. There are. They are typically £15 on ebay second hand. Managed to find a new steel on ebay from Lithuania for just under £15 including postage. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-O...Sportback-A8-S8-Q5-Q7-7L0012223-/253005407681

Wheel remover guide pin.JPG

Chap took 11 days to dispatch but it arrived 3 days later.

It looks longer than the plastic one so will probably need to elongate the storage compartment in the tool kit.
 
A lot of money for what it is!

If I could not find one substantially cheaper I would make one fron a 100mm partial threaded bolt. Chop off the head and thread length to size - at least it would fit the the tool box and cost next to nothing! I am not sure a hole is needed as you only need finger tight, but I probably would make a hole.

But if you are happy ...

Andy
 
Andrew said:
A lot of money for what it is!

If I could not find one substantially cheaper I would make one fron a 100mm partial threaded bolt. Chop off the head and thread length to size - at least it would fit the the tool box and cost next to nothing! I am not sure a hole is needed as you only need finger tight, but I probably would make a hole.

But if you are happy ...

Andy
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I'm happy! If one doesn't have the thread cutter then that's an extra cost plus one has to find out the thread size and pitch. I've just been messing around with plumbing and the old BSP threads, so I've had my fill of threads for the day ;)
 
Andrew said:
A lot of money for what it is!

If I could not find one substantially cheaper I would make one fron a 100mm partial threaded bolt. Chop off the head and thread length to size - at least it would fit the the tool box and cost next to nothing! I am not sure a hole is needed as you only need finger tight, but I probably would make a hole.

But if you are happy ...

Andy
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I second that Andy.

Regards,
Boris
 
Changed my front shocks and springs. Oh my what a "pita" the rear top strut nuts were to undo not much access even when the brake reservoir was out the way!

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Today I checked my average fuel economy this week to see what I get. Doing between 40 to 100 plus miles a day on motorway and town and country roads I was happy to see I got 73.5mpg. While I was driving economically about half the time, considering other other half and roads works etc. I am well chuffed.
7b36d047e1d51a221ad6764048d4819b.jpg


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A2! said:
Today I checked my average fuel economy this week to see what I get. Doing between 40 to 100 plus miles a day on motorway and town and country roads I was happy to see I got 73.5mpg. While I was driving economically about half the time, considering other other half and roads works etc. I am well chuffed.
7b36d047e1d51a221ad6764048d4819b.jpg


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Hi Euan

Looking at your updated avatar, have you had your car wrapped/resprayed?
 
Alan_uk said:
Went to take a wheel off the other day and found the thread on the plastic wheel fitting / alignment pin knackered - not me guv! So I wondered if there are steel pins. There are. They are typically £15 on ebay second hand. Managed to find a new steel on ebay from Lithuania for just under £15 including postage. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-O...Sportback-A8-S8-Q5-Q7-7L0012223-/253005407681

View attachment 31332

Chap took 11 days to dispatch but it arrived 3 days later.

It looks longer than the plastic one so will probably need to elongate the storage compartment in the tool kit.
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Ahhh yes. Another thing I could a lathe for. If I had one. Another excuse to get one I mean.
 
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