Today I.....

Hi, I'd received the boot struts before I left for work, so hadn't had time to install it, but I quickly checked it and tried to push the rod into the tube and to my surprise it didn't move at all. I can twist the top left/right, but that's it.

Is that normal? I'd literally put my body weight on it too, but to no avil. Cheers
Neither could I
Once fitted they are fine.
 
I'm putting together some items for Rick to obtain in respect of my axle restore. I already have purchased the handbrake cable Y splitter. Looking at the parts diagram I see it is held by 2 brackets nos. 14 and bolts nos. 15. Does anyone know what they are made of (steel or stainless steel or aluminium) and more importantly do they corrode? Ditto the bolts. I bet they are corroded - are they easy to get out?

Audi A2 handbrake Y splitter.jpg


On the diagram they look the same part but the part no.s are marked left and right and looking at the photos they look handed.

As a garage is likely to be fitting the axle I need to get any needed parts in advanced. I believe the parts sit behind the heat shield so not easy to check it.

PS those bolts are called Socket head bolt with inner multipoint head M8X20. I guess a M8X20 stainless steel bolt or hex bolt will be better though they seem to have a larger head compared to the shank than most bolts. Could use a SS washer.

bolts.jpg
 
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I'm putting together some items for Rick to obtain in respect of my axle restore. I already have purchased the handbrake cable Y splitter. Looking at the parts diagram I see it is held by 2 brackets nos. 14 and bolts nos. 15. Does anyone know what they are made of (steel or stainless steel or aluminium) and more importantly do they corrode? Ditto the bolts. I bet they are corroded - are they easy to get out?

View attachment 111079

On the diagram they look the same part but the part no.s are marked left and right and looking at the photos they look handed.

As a garage is likely to be fitting the axle I need to get any needed parts in advanced. I believe the parts sit behind the heat shield so not easy to check it.

PS those bolts are called Socket head bolt with inner multipoint head M8X20. I guess a M8X20 stainless steel bolt or hex bolt will be better though they seem to have a larger head compared to the shank than most bolts. Could use a SS washer.

View attachment 111080
Snap, our AT orders look identical! I believe they are steel. As to the bolts you could replace with stainless hex head bolts. From the picture they look very shallow like the ABS retaining bolts I’m wrestling with at the moment so once they get rusty very likely to strip.

J
 
Snap, our AT orders look identical! I believe they are steel. As to the bolts you could replace with stainless hex head bolts. From the picture they look very shallow like the ABS retaining bolts I’m wrestling with at the moment so once they get rusty very likely to strip.

J
Or snap. Not keen on disimalar metals if you going into Ali or mild steel.
 
Or snap. Not keen on disimalar metals if you going into Ali or mild steel.
Indeed, the A2 has plenty of this going on, just made up some ‘plastic’ washers for some of the heat shield retainers, the screws very corroded plus galvanic corrosion of the hear shield.

J
 
Or snap. Not keen on disimalar metals if you going into Ali or mild steel.
There are steel bolts on the A2 but they are (should) be coated. I think that's why what seem to be generic bolts have part number specifically for the A2 (my hunch). I'm thinking of coating any SS nuts with thread lock. It might help. Maybe one can buy a coating but it needs to be quite robust once dry else when tightening the bolt the coating will be stripped.

Threaded connections on the Audi A2.

All fastening components that come into
contact with aluminium are coated with
Dacromet, Delta Tone or a similar coating to
prevent contact corrosion.

In addition these parts are coloured with a
green lubricant on an alkyd resin basis to
provide a clear distinction to normal
fastening components
Ref: ssp239_Audi A2 Body Construction and Function Self Study
 
There are steel bolts on the A2 but they are (should) be coated. I think that's why what seem to be generic bolts have part number specifically for the A2 (my hunch). I'm thinking of coating any SS nuts with thread lock. It might help. Maybe one can buy a coating but it needs to be quite robust once dry else when tightening the bolt the coating will be stripped.


Ref: ssp239_Audi A2 Body Construction and Function Self Study
There’s lots of options to isolate different metals, greases, weaker locking compounds etc. it’s recommended for any case of differential metals
 
There’s lots of options to isolate different metals, greases, weaker locking compounds etc. it’s recommended for any case of differential metals
We used to use anti seize grease copperslip for 16mm dia steel bolts that went through aluminium blocks that held CNG tanks to the side of trucks, after 18 months you just had to cut most of them off. Road salt was the perfect mix to weld them into one block, grease or no grease.
 
I'm putting together some items for Rick to obtain in respect of my axle restore. I already have purchased the handbrake cable Y splitter. Looking at the parts diagram I see it is held by 2 brackets nos. 14 and bolts nos. 15. Does anyone know what they are made of (steel or stainless steel or aluminium) and more importantly do they corrode? Ditto the bolts. I bet they are corroded - are they easy to get out?

View attachment 111079

On the diagram they look the same part but the part no.s are marked left and right and looking at the photos they look handed.

As a garage is likely to be fitting the axle I need to get any needed parts in advanced. I believe the parts sit behind the heat shield so not easy to check it.

PS those bolts are called Socket head bolt with inner multipoint head M8X20. I guess a M8X20 stainless steel bolt or hex bolt will be better though they seem to have a larger head compared to the shank than most bolts. Could use a SS washer.

View attachment 111080
I’ve a pair in my spares box from Audi/TPS can check material later If required?
 
I’ve a pair in my spares box from Audi/TPS can check material later If required?
Well that sounds easy to do :) I've remembered I have an endoscope so I was thinking I could have a peep but it will be tomorrow before there is a dry spell. The price at AT including the bolt is eye-watering so it would be good to know.
 
Well that sounds easy to do :) I've remembered I have an endoscope so I was thinking I could have a peep but it will be tomorrow before there is a dry spell. The price at AT including the bolt is eye-watering so it would be good to know.
image.jpg
image.jpg

The left & right hand brackets are both zinc plated steel confirmed with the magnet test.
Hope that helps
Keith.
 
Or snap. Not keen on disimalar metals if you going into Ali or mild steel.
Looking at the Galvanic Corrosion Chart there is a big difference between aluminium and stainless steel. Zinc plated bolts may be better as zinc is much closer to aluminium.

However, I read that high tensile steel (10.9 & 12.9) can actually become brittle when coated as the coating process introduces hydrogen. Simply tightening it can cause internal cracks and the bolt can fail shortly afterwards. The same article said that if 8.8 is sufficient for strength then use that coated.
 
Today I carried out a diesel purge.
Gotta admit I have mixed feelings.
I expected my inline filter to look a lot dirtier than shown (fuel flowing on the outside of the element so I could see the crud). But maybe that means my system wasn't that dirty to start with.
I'm yet to change the fuel filter however.
IMG_20230729_151353629.jpg
 
Today I carried out a diesel purge.
Gotta admit I have mixed feelings.
I expected my inline filter to look a lot dirtier than shown (fuel flowing on the outside of the element so I could see the crud). But maybe that means my system wasn't that dirty to start with.
I'm yet to change the fuel filter however.View attachment 111144

This simply suggest that your fuel system was clean to start with
I’ve done many an A2 tdi with diesel purge from liqui moli and the inline files comes out totally black
Cars always seem to run sweeter less noise smoother tickover and generally report better performance and economy. I don’t think you are going to see these benefits as your fuel system was clean to start with

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This simply suggest that your fuel system was clean to start with
I’ve done many an A2 tdi with diesel purge from liqui moli and the inline files comes out totally black
Cars always seem to run sweeter less noise smoother tickover and generally report better performance and economy. I don’t think you are going to see these benefits as your fuel system was clean to start with

Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yip, that's the cleanest diesel purge filter I've seen after doing it.
 
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