Headlight Switch

I tucked mine down the panel under the light switch, just above the fuse box. A couple of cable ties should hold it in place and a bit of foam to stop it from rattling.
Just feed the connector through the light switch hole from the control box, not the other way around.

Steve B
 
Birchall said:
I tucked mine down the panel under the light switch, just above the fuse box. A couple of cable ties should hold it in place and a bit of foam to stop it from rattling.
Just feed the connector through the light switch hole from the control box, not the other way around.

Steve B
Click to expand...

I must be blind or misunderstanding. I can't find anywhere to tuck the control box in? Between the light switch and the fuse box panel that I can remove, I can't find any space for the control box. And I understand I need to feed the connector through from the back and out to the light switch hole, but even if I found a place for the control box I am not sure how that would happen as I can't get my hands in anywhere. Is there a panel that can be removed or something? Any pictures?

Namnlös.jpg


EDIT: I now found the picture with the panel removed, how do I remove the panel as per below to access the space between the light switch and the fuse box?

Namnlös.jpg

EDIT2: I also noticed now that when I unlock the car, not only the sidelight flash but also the registration plate light in the back. Does yours do that?
 
Last edited:
^
You can get pretty good access by removing the lower part of the dash. It's a couple of torx screws, unhook the bonnet release and the OBD connector.
 
daniel_se said:
EDIT2: I also noticed now that when I unlock the car, not only the sidelight flash but also the registration plate light in the back. Does yours do that?
Click to expand...


No,

Mine don't do that, it has not affected the locking / unlocking indicator flash.

Steve B
 
Thank you GuruX, I had missed one of the torx in the dark.

I have now done some tests and my conclusion based on the below, is that my car (being Swedish) must be hard-wired to always have the dipped beems on:

(1) When in AUTO in day light the dipped beams are on at 90%, when I cover the sensor I hear the control box click and the dipped beams goes up to 100%. This to be must mean that the AUTO function is at least working, but the control box is unable to switch off the dipped beams for some reason. I have also tried the AUTO-0-AUTO-0-AUTO to reset factory settings, the control box gives me a beep but I understand the position lights and dipped beems should flash to confirm reset, well they don't.

(2) When I have the switch on dipped beam pic-8.png, the dipped beams are turned off and only the position lights are on.

(3) The CH/LH function does not work at all, as soon as I turn the ignition off the headlights go off. I have tried locking the car while still seated inside, I can hear the control box clicking after about 10-20 seconds. There is no buzzer when in AUTO though. Perhaps the CH/LH function works, but again it can't control the dipped beams properly due to some hard-wiring done? But if CH/LH was working but just not on the dipped beams, I still think the position lights and rear lights should work....veru confused.

Has anyone else with a car from a country where dipped beams are mandatory installed this headlight switch and control box? And please see below picture of the headlight switch connector and the wiring from my car, do you see any obvious changes, or have any schematics or guide for how these should be connected?

20160210_080940_resized.jpg

Many thanks.
 
Last edited:
That's a strange story...

My opinion is that you have the same version as mine, but that's because your car is "modified" to have the dipped beam on all the time that the kit behaves like this.
On my car, the CH/LH definately turns on the registration plate lights (along with dipped beam and tail lights).

You can reverse your wiring to normal. I think that's just a matter of moving some wire(s) in the headlight switch connector.
I think you'll find the info in this long thread : http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?26076-Automatic-light-Coming-Leaving-home
 
This is what I get today with the headlight switch turned to:
0/zero: Dipped beams and side lights
1/parking lights: parking lights only
2/dipped beam: dipped beam and parking light

I think that is the standard Scandinavian setup. The question what has been done to get this, and could that be the reason for AUTO lights and CH/LH function not working.

I found a couple of usefel threads discussing this, see below links. I wonder if I am correct in thinking I could cut the yellow cable as per the below image that feeds into slot3/TRL. Would that make the dipped beams not come on with the ignition, but only the side lights?

Namnlös.jpg

http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?22985-New-OSRAM-DRL/page9
http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?4464-Set-DRLs-with-VAG-COM
 
Last edited:
daniel_se said:
I read that thread and it made me even more confused :D

My only conclusion from this is that I could try and un-bridge the TFL and 56 (if they are bridged). That should make my dipped beams stay off when in 0 and ignition on.
Click to expand...

Further to this, I had lunch and took some photos of the switch connector. As you can see I guess (3) is TFL and (4) is the 56-pin. They look bridged on mine, so should I try and remove the (3)/TFL and see what happens?

I didn't have any tools with me, but for the sake of not breaking the connector what is the mechanism for pulling the crimps out? On the side where the numbers are every number has like a little tooth, should that be pressed in and the pull the wire out, or should it be bent out and then wire out?

Thanks again

20160210_165936_resized.jpg20160210_165606_resized.jpg
 
Thgere is a special tool for removing the contacts, but if you want to disconnect it couldn;t you cut the wire and insulate it?

Or are you not sure that you want to permanently disconnect it?

Steve B
 
Birchall said:
Thgere is a special tool for removing the contacts, but if you want to disconnect it couldn;t you cut the wire and insulate it?

Or are you not sure that you want to permanently disconnect it?

Steve B
Click to expand...

Not sure what will happen. If dipped beams no longer comes on with ignition but the CH LH still wont function I want to replace it.

No way of gettting it out without a tool? Not sure I want to buy one for this one time, might be nice to have though or is it special just for audi connectors?
 
daniel_se said:
Not sure what will happen. If dipped beams no longer comes on with ignition but the CH LH still wont function I want to replace it.

No way of gettting it out without a tool? Not sure I want to buy one for this one time, might be nice to have though or is it special just for audi connectors?
Click to expand...


I bought one from eBay that listed them as Audi compatible

Steve B
 
Okay, I removed the number 3/TFL cable using a tool I made from a steel wire :)

Great succes but one major fault. With ignition on and 0 on headlight switch the dipped beams were off. And on AUTO they came on like they should when the sensor realized it was dark. When I switched the ignition off and took out the key the dipped beams and rear lights stayed on like they should and the buzzer came on. I went out and locked the car.

Sofar just as I hoped.10 secs went. 20...a minute. The lights never go off.....sigh. So close....

Any ideas please?
 
Last edited:
daniel_se said:
Okay, I removed the number 3/TFL cable using a tool I made from steel wire :)

Great succes but one major fault. With ignition on and 0 on headlight switch the dipped beams were off. And on AUTO they came on lile they should when the sensor realized it was dark. When I swotched the ignition off and took out the key the dipped beams and rear lights stayed on like they should and the buzzer came on. I went out and locked the car.

Sofar just as I hoped. Nut 10 secs went. 20...a minute. The lights never go off.....sigh. So close....

Any ideas please?
Click to expand...


Don't forget that with the new switch in place the settings are one step out , so when you switch to the side lights only position you are on the "Auto" position, when you switch to the "Headlights on" position you are at "Sidelights on".

Sorry if you have already taken that into account?

Steve B
 
Yes AUTO is 12 a'clock though, and I think it functions like it should except for the lights never going off.

Could I have added 10 seconds to the timer loads of times perhaps so the light time-out is really long...hmmm. I am out of ideas.
 
daniel_se said:
Yes AUTO is 12 a'clock though, and I think it functions like it should except for the lights never going off.

Could I have added 10 seconds to the timer loads of times perhaps so the light time-out is really long...hmmm. I am out of ideas.
Click to expand...
It is possible.
The delay is adjustable but I forget how to adjust it, was it on the PDF I found of the instructions?

It is a strange fault, you would expect it to work on and off or not at all.

Steve B
 
One thing that we need to remember here is that in a UK car the headlights would not have been modified to be on with the ignition.

Daniel's problems appear to be caused by this difference, so if you have a UK spec A2 then you should not suffer from the same problems (as has been proved by lots of other UK member's experiences)

Sorry that we have not been much help here Daniel but we will keep on trying.

It might be worth PMing member DasWiesel, he started the original thread and has a non UK car and installed this without issues?

Steve B


 
Birchall said:
One thing that we need to remember here is that in a UK car the headlights would not have been modified to be on with the ignition.

Daniel's problems appear to be caused by this difference, so if you have a UK spec A2 then you should not suffer from the same problems (as has been proved by lots of other UK member's experiences)

Sorry that we have not been much help here Daniel but we will keep on trying.

It might be worth PMing member DasWiesel, he started the original thread and has a non UK car and installed this without issues?

Steve B
Click to expand...

Good idea will PM him. And you are helping plenty, I am almost there now :) I don't mind making all the mistakes and writing about it so the next fellow scandinavian can have a smoother install ;)

Anyways, would be of great help to see a picture of the wiring from a standard headlight switch connector. Or some schedule of some sort.

What really bothers me is that when I go from 0 to AUTO it tales the kit a few seconds to realize that it is dark and turn on the headlights. So it can control the lights and access that function per se, so I find it strange that it cant/wont do the opposite and turn off the lights when I lock the car. Perhaps it is not wired to the locking system correctly somehow, I have no idea.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top