Today I.....

Swapped out slatted service flap for a smooth one

Before and after photos



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That car has gone from factory slatted, to smooth, to colour coded smooth, to slatted to smooth again. It’s had more face work done than Jordan ?
 
Is that a preference- currently slated which I assume came on later models


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At the moment, yes. I do think I should’ve left the surround Silver but as it was flaking and I had black paint it had to suffice

Yes ‘later’ models, someone will tell us when…


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At the moment, yes. I do think I should’ve left the surround Silver but as it was flaking and I had black paint it had to suffice

Yes ‘later’ models, someone will tell us when…


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Personally I like the dechromed look, better with retaining the silver badge though


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I want to make the swap as well, but I cannot get the old one off...

Take bonnet off, turn over laying it on something protective. You will see a square bar running across the flap area, this has a 2 torx screws that need to be removed, it’s then it’s just a case of unclipping the lugs around the edge of the flap.

I seem to recall reading that there is some difference between the slatted and smooth grill surrounds, although I haven’t noticed it.


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Decided to replace the increasingly recalcitrant petrol flap switch on my other half's car (the AUA that we have been fixing up for 2 and a bit years now following years of apparent neglect). Had a new one from an A2oc member a few weeks back in perfect condition. Released the switch from the trim, pulled it out to find the red-coloured connector with a single plastic flap sticking out of the connector. This looked different to what I was expecting, so I checked my other two cars - and found that 75% of the connector release mechanism was snapped off (ie, the other side of the connector and the complete lifting release mechanism were absent). In better light then I saw slightly glossy patches around the connector and the same flowed into the gaps at the sides - and realised (with help of a screwdriver) that the p*k&y b******ds who maintained, sold and probably fraudulently MOTd the car for the handful of previous owners in Fife (I am reasonably certain that this is the case judging by the MOT certificates, mileages and the appalling condition we received it in 3 months after a clean MOT) used superglue to keep the two parts together once the connector catch snapped. Really frustrated...

Have now identified the part number for a replacement fuel flap switch connector : 4B0971636B

just have to find one .. and then some way of swapping it over without getting the wiring wrong.
 
Have now identified the part number for a replacement fuel flap switch connector : 4B0971636B

just have to find one .. and then some way of swapping it over without getting the wiring wrong.
Can't say it was an issue with wiring when I replaced mine Robin, just clips back into the switch housing the way it came out of the knackered one?
 
Can't say it was an issue with wiring when I replaced mine Robin, just clips back into the switch housing the way it came out of the knackered one?
Hi Mark,

problem is that the bodging idiots who used to look after the car have superglued the switch into the connector having snapped the latch off.. hence to replace the failing switch I need to either separate switch and connector, or else cut the connector off and replace it... every job becomes two with this car.. ! :)
 
Finally got round to swapping over the two sets of twist heated leather seats. Sports now in Tonka and SE in the FSI: Just a few minor jobs to do on the FSI and then it’ll likely be sale time for it. ? I suspect my reticence to sell is, at least in part, why it’s taken me longer than I’d intended to get this done. That and real life having far too little respect for A2 tinkering time wise.
 
@Robin_Cox

Have you tried soaking the glued connector in IPA as this can quite often release the glue to enable the plug to come off the switch?

When you get the new connector a.k.a. red plug, line it up against the broken one and make a note of which lead fits in each location. Then after releasing any pin locking mechanism swap one lead at a time into the new plug.
Sometimes all the leads can come out at once on the smaller connectors, hence the draw a picture or photograph them.

If the new plug comes prewired it may be a simpler job to splice the wires into the car loom and seal with heatshrink rather than try to remove the existing from the broken plug and refit into the new plug.
 
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Took the bodge throttle body zip ties off and pulled the hose off and found it fairly clean and not broken. Opened TB up and the cogs were good no oil. Nice to get peace of mind!
Will see if pipe flies off on next drive before I get a new green pushfit inlet charge hose pipe seal.
Anyone confirm size I measured as 48mm inner and about 53mm outer?
 
got the A2's alignment mostly sorted - it's much better now, but I would still like more toe-in, i think. Was +0,x on one side and -0,x on the other, now it's -0.05 on both. Off up north tomorrow, first time it's been on a serious run in a very long time... probably in the last 5 years.
...and we're back, no major issues. 900kms I think - tripped over the 180000kms in my ownership mark yesterday. Absolutely torrential rain no problem. Got to work on the fuelly numbers, they should be available soon. Found out a couple of things:
- I have a really annoying hum as of 80km/h. Above 100km/h it melds into the road noise.
- there's a nice vibration when accelerating, especially above 80km/h. I don't know how long this has been there and I need to find out. I do wonder if this is connected to the above.
- the sub amp cuts out about 3h in, it's obviously overheating. I need to fix something pretty major there anyway, so I figure I might actually just drop down in size to the Soundigitals I intend to use in the Octy (and one of which was installed in the S-Cross Friday) - that has enough power and channels to do everything I want.
- I really do need my centre armrest back
- I will go back and ask for one more degree of toe-in to see how it helps the steering at high speed.
- sheesh, this car dances on gravel at 80. It's also really loud at the moment, I think the C-pillar lower covering is missing on one side, which would partly explain it
- Track is extremely likely to go ahead, also with a track on land this time and quite possibly our own private rally stage.. got to work on the logistics and numbers on that one.
 
Collected a few parts today in preparation for work to take place in the next couple of weeks.

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